What cham is
Cham is the Tibetan Buddhist term for ritual dance, performed by monks and in Bhutan also by trained lay performers at festivals. The dancers wear elaborate brocade costumes and, in many dances, painted wooden or papier-mache masks. The dances are not entertainment in the theatrical sense. They are understood as religious practice: a form of offering, a teaching in movement, and for many in the audience an occasion for blessing and merit.
Cham appears across the Tibetan Buddhist world, including Ladakh, Sikkim and Mongolia, with local styles. The Bhutanese forms are tied closely to the tsechu, a festival of the Drukpa and Nyingma communities.
What a tsechu is
The word tsechu means “tenth day”. Tsechu festivals are held on the tenth day of a lunar month in honour of Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche), who is traditionally said to have performed deeds on that date. The best-known tsechus take place in the courtyards of dzongs and temples, in Paro and Thimphu and in many other districts, usually lasting three to five days. Each place has its own programme and its own tradition of which dances are performed.
Because tsechus follow the Bhutanese lunar calendar, their dates in the Gregorian calendar change each year. The dates also differ by district, and schedules are occasionally adjusted. Check official sources or the festival calendar published by Bhutan’s tourism authorities before making any plans.
Dances you may encounter
Dance lists vary from festival to festival, and the names below are given in general terms. The meanings are those usually offered to the public; fuller interpretations belong to monastic teaching and are not described here.
- The Black Hat dance (Shana) is performed by dancers in broad black hats and is commonly explained as a ritual subduing of obstacles and negative forces.
- The Dance of the Lords of the Cremation Grounds (Durdag) features skeleton-like costumes and is usually understood as a reminder of impermanence and death.
- Dances of the Eight Manifestations of Guru Rinpoche depict different forms of Padmasambhava, some peaceful and some wrathful, and relate to his traditional life story.
- Animal and deer dances are often presented as moral or protective stories involving figures such as the stag.
- Dances of protector deities show wrathful figures whose fierce appearance is understood as compassion acting against ignorance, a theme described further in the article on protector deities.
Fierce masks should not be taken at face value. In Vajrayana imagery, wrathful forms usually express the power to cut through delusion, not cruelty.
The atsara
Between dances, masked figures called atsara move through the crowd. With exaggerated noses, comic gestures and teasing, they entertain spectators and fill the pauses while dancers change costume. They are also traditionally understood as sacred clowns, and what looks like simple fun has a place within the festival. Visitors may find themselves teased; good humour is the usual response.
The thongdrol
At some festivals, notably Paro Tsechu, a very large embroidered thangka called a thongdrol is displayed at dawn on the final morning. The name is commonly translated as “liberation on sight”, reflecting a belief that merely seeing it brings blessing. It is exhibited only briefly, before the sun reaches it. If you want to see it, expect to arrive very early, and expect crowds. The art form behind such works is covered in the article on thangka painting.
How spectators are expected to behave
Spectators at a tsechu are guests at a religious occasion. General guidance, which can vary by place and by officials on the day, includes:
- Dress modestly and neatly. Many Bhutanese wear national dress for festivals, and visitors are generally expected to wear respectful clothing with covered shoulders and legs.
- Keep to the spectator areas and do not step into the dance arena. Ushers may guide you.
- Be quiet during dances and avoid blocking others’ view.
- Ask before photographing people, and follow any rules about cameras and drones. Photography inside temples is often restricted. Bhutanese officials and festival organisers may set limits, so pay attention to signs and instructions. Broader guidance is in the article on temple photography etiquette.
- Do not touch dancers, masks or costumes, and do not take food or offerings meant for the ritual.
- Do not point your feet at the dance ground or at altars. A seat on the ground is common.
For wider advice on visiting during ceremonies, take your lead from local people and your guide.
Practical points
Festivals draw large crowds, so accommodation and transport fill quickly. Courtyards can be cold in the morning and hot at midday, and the sun at altitude is strong. Bring sun protection and warm layers. If you plan to visit in a monsoon-affected month, road conditions may change. Rules for visitors, including access to festival grounds, can be updated at short notice; confirm with Bhutanese authorities and your own government’s travel advice.
A living tradition
Tsechu is not staged for visitors. Families travel from surrounding villages, wear their best clothes, picnic in the courtyard and receive blessings, and the dances continue a tradition handed down by monastic communities. Watching with attention and restraint is the most respectful way to take part.