A Hindu holy city first
Varanasi, also called Banaras or Benares, is primarily one of the most important holy cities of Hinduism. Pilgrims come for the river Ganges, for bathing at the steps called ghats, for temples dedicated above all to Shiva, and for funeral rites. The city’s identity today is shaped by those traditions. It is not a Buddhist pilgrimage destination in the way that Bodh Gaya or Sarnath are, and the title of this page should be read with that in mind.
The Buddhist connection is real but indirect. It comes through the ancient kingdom of Kashi, whose capital was on the site of or near the modern city, and through Sarnath, a short distance to the north-east, where the Buddha is traditionally said to have first taught.
Kashi in the early texts
Early Buddhist texts list Kashi among the sixteen great states, often called the mahajanapadas, that existed in northern India around the time of the Buddha. Its capital was Baranasi, the form from which the modern name derives. The name Kashi is still used as a poetic or religious name for the city, and Hindu traditions use it widely. Kashi was known for its textiles and its trade along the river.
By the Buddha’s lifetime, the texts suggest that Kashi’s independence had been reduced and that it was under the influence of the neighbouring kingdom of Kosala. Later it was absorbed into the growing power of Magadha, which eventually led to the larger empires of the Mauryas. These political details are drawn from texts compiled after the events they describe, and historians treat them with caution.
The Jataka stories
Banaras appears frequently in the Jataka tales, the collection of stories about the Buddha’s previous lives. Many begin with a formula of the sort “when Brahmadatta was king of Benares”. These tales are legendary rather than historical, and Brahmadatta is best understood as a conventional name for a king. Even so, they show how closely the city was tied to Buddhist storytelling. One of the best known Jataka stories, about a deer king who offers his own life to protect his herd, is traditionally connected with the origins of the Deer Park at Isipatana.
The Buddha and the city
According to tradition, the Buddha travelled from Bodh Gaya toward Banaras after his awakening, passing a wandering ascetic on the way and then reaching the Deer Park at Isipatana outside the city. The texts describe him going into Banaras for alms and later teaching a number of local people, including a wealthy young man named Yasa and his family, who became early lay supporters and monastic members. After this, the community grew. The details vary between sources, and the Buddha’s later movements are said to have been largely elsewhere, in Magadha and Kosala.
For the first teaching itself, which is covered in the Sarnath articles, the city mattered mainly as a nearby centre of population and support. Sarnath was not inside it.
What visitors will find
The old city is crowded, dense and busy, with narrow lanes, temples and ghats along the river. Many travellers who come for Sarnath stay in Varanasi because it has transport links and services, and then travel out to the Buddhist site by road for a half day or more. Seeing the Ganges at dawn is an experience many remember, but it is a living religious place, with funeral pyres at some ghats, and visitors are asked to be discreet and respectful.
Practical points that apply broadly:
- Photography near funeral ghats is generally unwelcome, and permission matters.
- Dress modestly and be prepared to remove shoes at temples.
- Some temples limit entry to Hindus, so follow signs and local guidance.
- Beware of anyone claiming to be an official guide or priest who asks for money.
Customs and rules vary, so rely on current local information.
Pairing the city with Sarnath
Thinking of the two places together can be useful. Varanasi gives the setting of a river city that has been sacred for thousands of years, and Sarnath gives the Buddhist layer of the story. It also helps to avoid confusing the traditions: reverence for the Ganges in Hindu practice is different from what Buddhists associate with the first teaching.
The city is hot in the summer, humid in the monsoon and often foggy in winter, and crowds can be large around major festivals. Check government travel advice and current official sources about conditions, health, and any restrictions before travelling.