Silk Road and Gandhara

The Forgotten City of Taxila: A Buddhist Pilgrimage Site in Pakistan

How Taxila was identified and excavated in the modern era, from nineteenth-century surveys to John Marshall's digs, with practical visiting notes and safety advice.

On this page
  1. Forgotten, but never entirely lost
  2. The texts that pointed the way
  3. Nineteenth-century surveys
  4. John Marshall’s excavations
  5. After 1947
  6. Why rediscovery matters
  7. Practical visiting notes

Forgotten, but never entirely lost

Taxila was not unknown in the modern era, and local people always knew the mounds and ruins. What was lost, over the centuries, was a clear understanding of what the sites were and how they related to the city described in ancient texts. Its recovery was a gradual scholarly process rather than a single discovery.

The texts that pointed the way

Greek and Latin writers who described Alexander’s campaign in the late fourth century BCE mention a city called Taxila, and Indian sources know it as Takshashila. Chinese travellers, including Faxian and Xuanzang, left accounts of the area and its Buddhist monuments. Nineteenth-century investigators used these accounts as guides, comparing their descriptions of distances and directions with the landscape. Their reading of the sources was imperfect, and some identifications of individual monuments were later revised. The role of such pilgrim narratives is discussed in our notes on Chinese pilgrim monks.

Nineteenth-century surveys

In the 1860s, Alexander Cunningham, who led the early Archaeological Survey of India, identified the ruins near modern Taxila with the ancient city, working from classical and Chinese descriptions. He also carried out early excavations at some of the Buddhist monuments. Methods of the period were often crude by modern standards, and objects were collected with limited recording. Many early finds ended up in museums far from where they were found.

John Marshall’s excavations

The major archaeological work took place under John Marshall, Director-General of the Archaeological Survey of India, who began excavations at Taxila in 1913 and continued them for about two decades. His teams excavated the early city at Bhir Mound, the later city at Sirkap, and Buddhist monasteries and stupas including Dharmarajika, Jaulian and Mohra Moradu. They established a sequence of occupations, from earlier settlement through Persian, Mauryan, Indo-Greek, Scythian, Parthian and Kushan phases, and produced a large body of finds.

Marshall’s work was important for the study of Gandhara and for the dating of Buddhist monuments in the north-west. Later scholars have revised some of his chronology and interpretations, as is normal in archaeology, and the details are still discussed. His thorough publication, which appeared after the excavations, remains a reference for the site. The colonial setting of this work also matters: excavation, collecting and the removal of objects took place under British rule, and views today about that history differ.

After 1947

After the partition of British India in 1947, the sites fell within Pakistan and were managed by its archaeological authorities. The Taxila Museum, which houses finds from the excavations, was set up to display material from the area. UNESCO inscribed the archaeological ruins at Taxila on the World Heritage List in 1980. Conservation challenges include weathering of stucco and stone, encroachment, unregulated digging and the pressure of nearby development, and conservation efforts continue to be debated and supported by various agencies.

Why rediscovery matters

Taxila’s recovery changed how historians understood Buddhism in the north-west. It showed monasteries supported by merchants and local rulers, close to an ordinary city, and it provided evidence for artistic exchange across Asia. For the broader context of how archaeology has reshaped knowledge of Buddhist sites across the region, see our discussion of archaeological rediscovery. The monuments themselves are described in the companion article on the Taxila monasteries.

Practical visiting notes

This is general information only and conditions change.

  • Check current government travel advice for Pakistan before making any plans. Advice differs by region and over time.
  • Confirm opening days, fees and photography rules with official sources, as they are set by the authorities.
  • The Taxila Museum is a useful first stop for understanding the sites and is usually best visited before the ruins.
  • Summer heat can be intense. Carry water, wear sun protection and take care on uneven ground.
  • Dress modestly and conservatively, particularly outside major cities, and be respectful toward local people.
  • Treat the sites with care: do not climb on walls or stupas, remove fragments, or touch surviving stucco.

Local guides and officials can offer current guidance. Because arrangements may differ from older accounts, rely on recent official information rather than older travel writing.

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