A note on the name
The title of this article uses a name that is not the one most visitors and guidebooks use. The large brick chedi in the old city of Chiang Mai, northern Thailand, is usually known as Wat Chedi Luang, meaning roughly “temple of the great chedi”. “Phra That” is a Thai and Lanna term for a relic-holding stupa, which is why it appears in longer forms of the name. If you are searching for the site in Chiang Mai, Wat Chedi Luang is the name to look for. Local signs and maps may show other spellings and longer names, and Thai place names are transliterated in several ways.
This article is about that temple, and about what it is that pilgrims and visitors see there.
A chedi from the Lanna period
Chiang Mai was founded as the capital of the Lanna kingdom in the late thirteenth century, traditionally dated to 1296 under King Mangrai. Wat Chedi Luang came somewhat later. According to the commonly given account, construction of the great chedi began in the late fourteenth century during the reign of a Lanna king, and continued over several decades, with completion in the fifteenth century. Dates in Lanna chronicles are not always consistent with one another, so treat them as approximate.
The monument was reportedly one of the tallest structures in the region at its height, with a square base and tiered levels, and it was probably capped by a spire. The figure sometimes quoted for its original height is not firmly established, and you will find varying numbers. What can be said with confidence is that it was a very large chedi, built to enshrine relics and to show royal piety.
Why it is partly ruined
The upper part of the chedi collapsed in the sixteenth century, and a strong earthquake in 1545 is commonly cited as the cause. Since then the monument has stood with its top broken away, leaving a massive brick structure with stairways on each side and niches that once held images. Restoration work in the twentieth century added elements to parts of the structure, including some new sculpture and decoration. The way restoration was done has been discussed by heritage specialists, and some people prefer the unrestored ruin to the repaired appearance. Visitors may notice the contrast between the weathered brick and the newer surfaces.
The elephant figures at the base of the main staircase are among the more striking features. Several are restored or recreated.
The Emerald Buddha connection
The temple’s best-known association is with the Emerald Buddha. According to the traditional account, the green image was brought to Chiang Mai in the fifteenth century and installed in the eastern niche of the chedi, where it stayed for decades before being moved on to the Lao kingdom of Lan Xang and later to Bangkok. The story is told in Thai and Lao sources, but the earliest stages are legendary and the timeline is not firmly documented.
Today a replica, sometimes described as made of jade, occupies the niche, and the original image is in the temple of the Emerald Buddha in Bangkok’s Grand Palace. You do not need to accept every part of the story to understand why people feel that the northern site and the royal Bangkok temple are linked. The Bangkok side of the story begins with Wat Phra Kaew history in the Grand Palace.
What else you will see
The compound has an assembly hall with a large seated Buddha image and a reclining Buddha in a separate building. Monastery buildings lie around the edges, and the grounds include old trees and smaller shrines. A monk-chat program has operated at some temples in Chiang Mai, including this one at times, where visitors can talk with novices who practise English; whether it is available now should be checked locally, and it is an exchange, not entertainment.
There is a shrine associated with the city’s guardian spirits, within the grounds, connected with older beliefs. Thai Buddhism has always existed alongside such local practices, and offerings made there are a matter for local worshippers.
Visiting with respect
- Dress modestly with shoulders and knees covered, and take off shoes before entering the halls.
- Do not climb on the ruined brickwork or lean on the structure. Follow barriers and signs.
- Keep your feet away from images, and do not touch monks, especially if you are a woman.
- Ask before taking photographs of monks or worshippers.
- Avoid loud conversation; people may be meditating or praying.
Customs differ between communities, so follow the instructions of staff and monks. Opening hours, entrance arrangements and any evening events change from time to time, so check current official information before you plan.
The old city sits at a lower altitude than the mountains around Chiang Mai, but the hot season, roughly March to May in many years, can be intense, and the rainy season brings heavy showers. Plan the day accordingly and carry water.
Why it matters
Wat Chedi Luang is significant both as an expression of Lanna royal devotion and as a place where history, legend and ongoing worship overlap. The broken top gives it a quiet, weathered presence that differs from the gilded finish of many Thai temples. For a pilgrim, it can be a place for reflection on impermanence, a theme central to Buddhist teaching, though visitors may reach this feeling or any other by their own route.