Mysteries, or a mountain
Visitors sometimes arrive at Ganden expecting secrets. The real attraction is more straightforward and, in its way, more moving: a large monastery set into the curve of a high mountain bowl, with a pilgrim path that circles the ridge above it. This article describes the experience of the place and the walk known as the Ganden kora, as a visitor might meet it. The monastery’s history and its place in the Gelug tradition are discussed in other articles, so they appear here only briefly.
The setting
Ganden stands on Wangbur Mountain, east of Lhasa, at an altitude above 4,000 metres. The approach is by road, climbing from the Kyichu valley by a series of bends. The journey from Lhasa usually takes a number of hours there and back with time at the site, though road and checkpoint conditions affect it.
From the car park a path climbs steeply to the main buildings. The monastery spreads across a natural amphitheatre, with white walls, dark window frames and golden roof ornaments. A visitor typically encounters juniper smoke, butter lamps, murmured prayers and the sound of prayer wheels. Most of what is standing is rebuilt, since the site was heavily damaged in the 20th century, but the layout echoes older plans. The Tibetan gompa layout, with its assembly hall, chapels and monks’ quarters, can be read in miniature here.
Photography is often restricted inside the halls and there may be fees for it. Whether you may take photographs is a matter for the monks and custodians, and temple photography etiquette means asking and accepting a refusal.
The kora
The Ganden kora is the walking route around the ridge above the monastery. A kora is a clockwise circuit made as an act of devotion, and the practice is common across the Tibetan world. The idea behind circumambulation practice is that walking around a sacred place, with prayer or recitation, brings merit and honours what stands at its centre.
At Ganden the path generally climbs to the ridge behind the buildings and follows it round, with views over the valley and toward distant ranges on a clear day. Along the way pilgrims pass prayer flags tied across the path, cairns and small shrines, and some touch their forehead to rocks said to be holy. Local people add a stone or a handful of juniper, and some stop to rest in groups. How long the circuit takes depends on how far you go and how fast you adjust to the height; many people allow a couple of hours or more, and slow progress is normal.
Visitors may follow the kora if conditions permit, in the same clockwise direction as the pilgrims. Keep to marked paths, be considerate of those walking prayerfully and avoid loud conversation. Local belief ascribes protective spirits to such ridges, a subject that comes under mountain deities, so littering or shouting is considered disrespectful as well as untidy.
Altitude and weather
The kora is a walk at over 4,000 metres, and the highest part of the route is higher. Altitude illness can be serious and may affect anyone, including fit people. This guide is general information only and is not medical advice. If you are going from low ground, do not go to Ganden on your first days in Lhasa. Speak to a doctor or travel clinic beforehand, drink water, move slowly and stop if you feel unwell. Read up on altitude sickness awareness before travelling.
The weather on the ridge can change quickly. Wind, cold and sun are all stronger than on the valley floor, and the paths can be icy. Wear layers and sun protection, and carry water. Do not walk the ridge alone in poor weather.
Etiquette on site
Dress modestly and remove hats in the halls. Do not point your feet at images or touch sacred objects, and follow the custom of walking clockwise. Women should not touch monks. Donations are welcome but optional. Lighting a lamp or leaving a small offering is done in the manner pilgrims do, and if unsure, watch first.
Access
Tibet travel rules for foreign visitors, including permits, group requirements and the status of specific sites, change from time to time. Monasteries may be closed to visitors on certain days or during events. Consult current official sources and your own government travel advice before planning a visit.
What the place offers
Ganden does not need a mystery to be worth the journey. Its quiet is of a kind that comes with altitude and distance from the city, and its daily rhythms of prayer, tea and debate go on largely the same for visitors as for pilgrims. A traveller who goes slowly, listens and leaves little behind will see most of what there is to see.