There is no single Shigatse Monastery
The phrase “Shigatse Monastery” is sometimes used as if it named one institution. In practice, Shigatse is a city and a prefecture in the Tsang region of the Tibet Autonomous Region, and it contains or lies near many monasteries belonging to different schools. When people say “the monastery at Shigatse,” they usually mean Tashilhunpo, the large Gelug monastery on the edge of the city. The title is therefore best read as a question about what monasteries are in and around Shigatse.
The accurate position, then, is that no historic monastery is formally called “Shigatse Monastery,” though the city has a fortress (dzong) site and a number of religious buildings. The sections below outline what visitors and readers are likely to be asking about.
Shigatse in brief
Shigatse is generally described as Tibet’s second city after Lhasa. It lies at the meeting of the Yarlung Tsangpo and Nyang rivers, at an elevation near 3,800 metres. Historically it was the seat of the rulers of Tsang, and a centre of trade and administration. Its prominence in Tibetan religion is closely tied to Tashilhunpo and the Panchen Lamas.
The old Shigatse dzong, a fortress that once dominated the city, was heavily damaged in the twentieth century. A reconstruction has since been built, and its role is cultural and administrative as much as religious, so treat it as a historic site rather than a monastery.
Tashilhunpo, the main monastery
Tashilhunpo is the best known and most visited monastery in the city. Founded in the mid-fifteenth century according to tradition, it is a major Gelug seat and the traditional home of the Panchen Lamas. Pilgrims and visitors go there to see its halls, its large Maitreya image and the tomb-stupas of earlier Panchen Lamas. Separate articles cover the history of the Panchen Lama connection and the practicalities of walking its kora. For this overview, it is enough to say that if you are visiting only one monastery in Shigatse, Tashilhunpo is the one most people mean.
Other monasteries in the area
Several important sites lie within reach of Shigatse, with the usual caveat that distances and road conditions should be checked locally.
- Sakya. The seat of the Sakya school, with its grey-walled southern monastery, lies to the south-west. Its history is covered separately.
- Shalu. South of Shigatse, Shalu is associated with the scholar Buton Rinchen Drub and with a distinctive blend of architectural styles in its main temple. It is also known in Tibetan history as a centre of study.
- Narthang. Historically known for its printing house, which produced editions of Tibetan Buddhist texts from carved wood blocks. Much of the original complex was damaged, so expectations should be modest, but the printing history is important.
- Ngor. A monastery of the Ngor branch of the Sakya tradition, founded in the fifteenth century according to tradition, and the source of a major lineage.
- Gyantse. Not far to the south-east, Gyantse is known for the Pelkor Chode complex and its multi-storey stupa, often called the Gyantse Kumbum. It is a separate town, but is commonly paired with Shigatse in travel descriptions. Do not confuse it with Kumbum in Amdo.
Not all of these sites are equally accessible, and access, opening times and permitted visitors change. Some may be closed or restricted without notice.
Different schools in one region
One of the interesting features of the area is that it contains monasteries of different schools in close proximity. Tashilhunpo is Gelug, Sakya and Ngor belong to the Sakya school, and the region also has Kagyu and Nyingma sites. A visitor who wants to understand how Tibetan Buddhist schools relate will find Shigatse a useful base. The surrounding villages have their own small temples, a reminder that not every sacred place appears in a guidebook.
Visiting and planning
Foreign travellers to the TAR have typically needed permits and organised arrangements, and the rules for Shigatse prefecture can differ from those for Lhasa and can change with little notice. Confirm all requirements with official sources, and check government travel advice before booking anything.
At close to 3,800 metres, Shigatse can cause altitude symptoms, and altitude sickness awareness is sensible even for those who have already spent days at similar heights. Seek medical advice before you go, and give yourself time to acclimatise. Winters are cold and windy, and road travel in the region may be affected by weather.
General etiquette applies at every monastery: dress modestly, walk clockwise, remove shoes and hats where asked, ask before photographing, and do not touch monks, images or offerings. Photography rules differ from one chapel to the next, and tickets may be needed for particular halls.
Reading the title carefully
The title promises mysteries, but the main surprise is simple: Shigatse is not one monastery but a region with several, with Tashilhunpo at its centre. Treat any article, tour description or map that refers vaguely to the “Shigatse Monastery” with a little caution, and look for the specific name of the site being described. Doing so also makes it easier to learn about the distinct histories of the sites you visit.