Where the strength of a monastery lies
The “power” of a monastery is easy to misread. In the Buddhist understanding, it lies less in buildings than in people: a community that keeps a shared discipline, studies the teachings and is supported by lay society. That community is called the sangha. Its relationship with the people around it is one of reciprocal support, and it helps explain many of the customs a visitor will see.
What the sangha is
The word sangha is used in more than one way. In the narrowest sense it means the ordained community of monks and nuns. In a broader sense some traditions use it for all practitioners, lay and ordained. Together with the Buddha and the Dharma (the teachings), the sangha forms the Three Jewels, in which Buddhists traditionally take refuge.
The monastic community is held together by a code of conduct known as the vinaya. Different lineages follow different versions of it, and these differences are one reason monastic life varies between the Theravada, Mahayana and Vajrayana traditions. There are also differences in whether and how full ordination for women is available, which is a topic on which traditions and communities take different positions.
A relationship of giving
In many Buddhist societies, monastics own little and are not expected to earn a living. Food, robes, medicine and lodging come from lay donors. In exchange, the monastic community offers teaching, ritual services such as blessings and funeral chanting, counsel and an example of a disciplined way of life. Lay people often describe giving as a way of making merit, a theme that runs through pilgrimage as well as local practice, and the ideas of merit and devotion deserve their own discussion.
This is not a commercial transaction. In Theravada countries it is understood that a monk does not ask for food; he stands or walks quietly, and the giver decides what to offer. Both sides are seen as benefiting: the donor through generosity, the monastic through the support that allows a life of study and practice.
Alms and food offerings
In Sri Lanka, Thailand, Myanmar, Laos and Cambodia, the morning alms round is a familiar sight. People prepare rice and other food, kneel or stand respectfully, and place it in the monks’ bowls. Visitors who watch should keep a quiet distance, avoid flash photography, and not block the monks’ path. Questions about giving alms respectfully are widely discussed, and in some towns local residents have asked visitors not to treat the alms round as a performance.
In other traditions, offerings take different forms: food placed on shrines, butter lamps, flowers, incense or donations to the monastery. Shrine offerings are made in ways that vary by country. Following what local worshippers do, or asking a caretaker, is a sensible approach.
Seasonal and community occasions
Lay support is also organised around specific occasions. In some Theravada countries, a kathina ceremony takes place after the rains retreat, when communities present robes and other requisites to monks. Monasteries mark funerals, anniversaries and festivals, with laypeople providing meals and labour. Sri Lankan Poya days and Thai wat festivals are examples. In Himalayan regions, villagers may sponsor a ritual or a festival at their local monastery, and in some families a child may be sent to the monastery to be educated or ordained.
Attending a monastery as a visitor
A monastery is a home as well as a place of worship, so ordinary courtesy applies. Some practical points, which vary by community:
- Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and remove shoes where asked.
- Speak quietly and switch off your phone.
- Do not touch monks or nuns, and women in particular should avoid contact with monks. Do not hand objects directly to a monk if you are a woman; place them where indicated, or follow local advice.
- Do not point your feet at images or at people; sit with legs tucked to the side if you must sit on the floor.
- Ask before photographing people or rooms, and observe any signs that forbid photography.
- Walk around stupas and shrines clockwise, as other worshippers do.
If you wish to donate, a donation box is usually the simplest way. Some monasteries have specific requests, such as for food, oil or supplies, and it is best to ask. Giving money directly to an individual monk is not appropriate in every tradition, since some monastic codes restrict handling money. A monastery guesthouse stay, with meals, is offered in some places, with rules about conduct and schedule that guests are expected to follow.
Not a performance
Visitors sometimes arrive expecting an atmosphere of exotic ritual. The more accurate view is that the sangha and its supporters share a long-standing, ordinary arrangement: those who give, and those who practise. Treating that arrangement with patience and humility is the surest way to be welcome. Arrangements, opening times and ceremony dates change, so confirm current details with local sources.