A monument made for walking
Most Buddhist monuments can be circled; Borobudur is built so that the circling is also a climb. The route runs around each gallery and then up a staircase to the next, until it reaches the open circular terraces and the great stupa at the centre. For many writers, this is the key to what the place is for: it is a structure that a person is meant to move through, not simply to look at.
It is important to be honest about the evidence. There is no surviving ancient account of how pilgrims used Borobudur, so the description of the walk below is partly drawn from the monument’s layout, from common Buddhist practice and from modern accounts. Interpretations vary.
The direction of the walk
In Buddhist practice across Asia, a person who circles a stupa or shrine usually keeps it on their right-hand side, which means moving clockwise. This is known as pradakshina, and the wider tradition is described in the article on circumambulation practice. In Tibetan Buddhist settings the same idea is seen in a kora, such as the kora at Boudhanath. At Borobudur, the sequence of relief panels is arranged to be read in the same direction, so that walking the path in the traditional manner also lets the story unfold in order.
The usual starting point is the east side, where the main stairway rises. From there the walker circles the first gallery, climbs and circles again, and so on. Because the galleries get shorter as the monument narrows, each ring is a little shorter than the one below.
From desire to formlessness
A common way of describing the ascent follows the three-part reading of the design, discussed in more depth in the article on the Borobudur mandala design.
- The base. The lowest level, today hidden, is generally understood to represent the world of desire and its consequences. Pilgrims in earlier times may have known it only as a pattern of carved scenes under the first walkway, if they knew of it at all.
- The galleries. On the square terraces the walls are crowded with carved stories and rows of Buddha images. A walker is surrounded by teachings: the life of the Buddha, earlier lives and the seeker’s journey, as explained in the article on the Borobudur reliefs. This part of the walk is often taken to stand for the realm of form, where the path is learned.
- The open terraces. At the top, the walls fall away. The ground is circular, the carved scenes are gone and the sky opens out. Seated Buddhas can be seen through stone lattices, a subject developed under Borobudur stupas and Buddhas. This stage is often linked to the realm of formlessness, where words and images matter less.
Some visitors and writers see this as a progression of the mind in meditation; others see it as a more general teaching on letting go. Both views are modern readings of a design that does not explain itself. Readers interested in the inner side of the path can compare it with the account of meditation practice.
The empty centre
At the summit stands the large central stupa. It is closed, and the question of what it once held, if anything, is unresolved. A statue found nearby in the 19th century and often called the unfinished Buddha has been discussed in this connection, but its exact relationship to the main stupa is debated. A cautious reading is that the stupa’s silence is part of its effect, and that no one explanation has been proved.
The walk today
Rules for visitors have changed in recent years. Access to the upper levels has at times been limited by ticketing, timed entry, guide requirements and special footwear, and some stairways are closed to one-way traffic. As a result, a full ascent in the traditional manner may not always be possible for ordinary visitors, and the experience can differ from the ideal described here. Check current official information before planning around it, and consider our practical notes on Borobudur visitor etiquette.
Pilgrims and monks who gather at the monument for Vesak and other observances may be given particular arrangements. The festival is covered in the article on Vesak at Borobudur.
Cautions for the climb
The walk is not strenuous in a technical sense, but conditions can be demanding.
- Heat and humidity. The terraces are exposed and stone holds heat. Go early or late, carry water, rest in shade where you can and stop if you feel unwell. See heat on pilgrimage for general advice.
- Steep steps. The staircases are narrow and steep, and can be slippery after rain. Use handrails where provided and take care on the descent.
- Crowds. At busy times the walkways are congested and people may be pushed to stop in awkward places. Be patient and see crowd safety awareness for general points.
- Respect. Do not touch the carvings, keep your voice low and give way to those who are praying.
This is general information only. People with heart, joint or breathing conditions should seek medical advice before travelling, and visitors should follow the instructions of site staff.
Approaching the walk as a pilgrim
Many Buddhists do not climb in order to gain a particular result but as an act of respect and mindfulness. Whatever one’s own tradition or none, a slow pace, quiet attention and attention to the carving beneath one’s hand-rail are in keeping with the monument. Pilgrimage is described in this site’s section on mindful travel; the same attitude suits Borobudur.