Places of the Buddha Life

A Journey to the Sacred Sites of Sarnath: A Buddhist Pilgrimage Site

How Sarnath fits between Lumbini, Bodh Gaya and Kushinagar on a Buddhist pilgrimage circuit, and how much time pilgrims typically allow for it.

On this page
  1. Sarnath’s place in the sequence
  2. Where Sarnath sits geographically
  3. Two common ways to arrange the circuit
  4. How long pilgrims typically allow
  5. What there is to see
  6. Practical points for the circuit
  7. Holding the sequence lightly

Sarnath’s place in the sequence

Sarnath, in Uttar Pradesh, is where the Buddha is traditionally said to have given his first teaching, in a grove known as the Deer Park. In the circuit that many pilgrims follow, it is the third of the four holy places linked to his life: Lumbini for the birth, Bodh Gaya for the awakening, Sarnath for the first teaching and Kushinagar for the death, or parinirvana. This order follows the sequence of the life story, which is why it is so widely used, though nothing requires a pilgrim to travel in it.

The idea of four places comes from a passage in the Mahaparinibbana Sutta of the Pali Canon, in which the Buddha is described as naming sites that a faithful person may visit with reverence. Later tradition added others, such as Sravasti, Rajgir, Sankasya and Vaishali, so some pilgrimages include eight places rather than four.

Where Sarnath sits geographically

Lumbini lies in Nepal, close to the Indian border. The other three places are in India, spread across the Middle Ganges plain. Sarnath lies a short distance northeast of the centre of Varanasi, a major city on the Ganges with an airport and railway connections, which is why pilgrims most often reach Sarnath by staying in or near Varanasi. The city itself is chiefly a Hindu holy city and is covered separately in our note on Varanasi as a base.

Travelling in a rough west-to-east line, many pilgrims go from Lumbini across the border into Uttar Pradesh, while others fly into Varanasi or Gaya, depending on where they enter the country. Because road conditions, border procedures and transport options change, no single route is fixed. Rather than rely on fixed distances or journey times from an article like this one, check current timetables and official guidance, and allow generous margins for delays.

Two common ways to arrange the circuit

In life-story order. A pilgrim begins at Lumbini, continues to Bodh Gaya, then Sarnath, then Kushinagar. This has the advantage of following the story, though it can mean doubling back across the plain.

By convenience. Others arrive in Varanasi or Gaya and visit sites in whatever order the transport allows, sometimes starting with Sarnath because it is so close to a large airport. Some people simply take the geographic order and read the life story in their own sequence as they go.

Both approaches are common. The tradition does not rank one above another, and practice varies between Theravada, Mahayana and Vajrayana communities as well as between individual pilgrims.

How long pilgrims typically allow

Sarnath is compact, and the main archaeological area can often be seen in a few hours, including the Dhamek Stupa, the excavated ruins and the museum. Many visitors include it as a half day or a full day when travelling through Varanasi. Those who wish to join chanting, meditate or visit several of the temples built by different countries usually add a night or two.

For the whole circuit, people commonly plan something like a week to ten days or more, depending on how they travel and whether they add places such as Rajgir, Nalanda or Sravasti. This is only a rough guide. Travel in northern India can be slow, and a relaxed schedule usually serves a pilgrimage better than a crowded one.

What there is to see

The main elements, described in more detail in other articles, include:

  • the Dhamek Stupa, a large cylindrical monument that stands at the heart of the site
  • the remains of monasteries and shrines in the excavated park
  • the remains of an Ashoka pillar, whose famous lion capital is displayed in the Sarnath Museum
  • the Mulagandhakuti Vihara, a modern temple, built in the twentieth century, with a pilgrim community around it
  • temples built by Buddhist communities from several countries

The Deer Park itself continues to be a place of quiet walking and reflection.

Practical points for the circuit

  • Northern India is hot in summer and heavy rain falls in the monsoon months. The notes on heat on pilgrimage and monsoon travel considerations apply to all four places.
  • Winter mornings can be foggy and cool, which sometimes affects flights and trains. Check forecasts and current transport information.
  • Rules on entry to archaeological sites, ticketing, photography and opening hours are set by the authorities and may change. Verify them from official sources before you go.
  • Crossing from Nepal into India involves immigration requirements that depend on your nationality. Check current rules with the relevant authorities and read your own government travel advice.
  • Dress modestly, remove shoes where asked and follow the customs described under temple entry customs.

Holding the sequence lightly

Pilgrims often note that the four places together tell a story, from birth to awakening, from awakening to teaching, from teaching to death. Sarnath is the point at which a personal experience becomes a teaching shared with others. How a person responds to that meaning varies widely, and the tradition accommodates scholars, devotees and curious travellers alike. This guide is an independent source, not an authority for any tradition, so follow the guidance of local communities where it differs.

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