A place where practice continues
Sarnath is most often described through its ruins, but it is also a living place of worship. Pilgrims come here to remember the Buddha’s first teaching, delivered, according to tradition, to five former companions in the Deer Park. The history of the site is covered elsewhere; this article is about what people do there now, and how a visitor might take part without causing disruption.
Practice at Sarnath is not uniform. Theravada pilgrims from Sri Lanka, Thailand and Myanmar, Mahayana visitors from East Asia, and Tibetan and Himalayan Buddhists each bring their own customs, languages and chants. Many monastic and lay visitors are present at the same time, and there is no single correct way to behave. What follows describes common patterns in general terms.
Chanting
The most noticeable activity is group chanting. In the Theravada tradition, pilgrims often recite verses in Pali, sometimes including passages associated with the first teaching, known as the Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta. Groups from other countries may chant in Thai, Sinhala, Burmese, Chinese, Japanese, Korean or Tibetan. Chanting may take place near the Dhamek Stupa, in the Deer Park, or inside the temples built by various communities.
If a group is chanting, it is considerate to stay at a distance, keep your voice down and avoid walking through the middle of it. Joining a chant is generally welcome if you are invited, but there is no obligation.
Walking and circumambulation
Walking slowly around the Dhamek Stupa in a clockwise direction is a widespread devotional act, and it can also be a form of walking meditation. Some people recite verses or mantras silently as they walk; others simply keep attention on their steps. The custom is explained in more detail under circumambulation practice. Keep to the flow of walkers, avoid stopping suddenly on the path and give priority to elderly pilgrims.
Sitting and reflection in the Deer Park
The park beside the excavated area, which is known as the Deer Park, is a landscaped garden with lawns, trees and paths. Many visitors find a quiet spot and sit for some time, in silence or in meditation. Visitors who are used to a formal meditation practice may do their own; those who are not might simply reflect on the story of the first teaching or on the themes it contains. The Four Noble Truths and the Middle Way, as the early texts describe them, are among the best-known of those themes. Different traditions interpret them in different ways, and no one reading is presented here as the correct one.
A few practical points help:
- Choose a place that does not block paths, ruins or other people.
- Sit comfortably, as you would for any meditation; there is no required posture for visitors.
- Be aware that the weather can be hot, so water and a hat may be sensible. See the notes on heat on pilgrimage.
- Keep phones silent and avoid conversation near people who are praying.
For those who want a more structured experience, some temples and centres in the area hold teachings and retreats. These are run by the communities themselves, and availability, language and conditions vary, so contact the relevant organisation directly. This site cannot recommend or verify any programme.
Offerings and devotion
Pilgrims commonly offer flowers, incense, candles or lamps, and some tie or lay cloth. Others make donations to the monasteries or the maintenance of the site. These are personal choices and should not be done under pressure. Pilgrims from some traditions also prostrate; this is especially associated with Tibetan visitors. Offering customs differ, and the notes on shrine offerings give general suggestions. If you are unsure, watch what others do and ask politely.
Festival days
Large groups gather at Sarnath on days of special significance. Among them is the full moon day in the month known in some countries as Asalha, when the first teaching is commemorated, and the Vesak festival, which many traditions observe as the day of birth, awakening and death. Observances differ between countries, and the dates vary from year to year. If you are travelling for a festival, check the dates and the arrangements in advance, expect crowds and be prepared for restrictions.
Etiquette
Customs vary by community, and local guidance always comes first. In general:
- Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees, as outlined in the guidance on temple dress code.
- Remove shoes where requested.
- Speak softly and refrain from loud conversations or phone calls.
- Do not point your feet at images or touch sacred objects.
- Avoid touching monks and nuns, especially if you are a woman.
- Ask before photographing people, and follow posted rules on photography. The notes on temple photography etiquette apply.
- Keep litter to a minimum. Small acts of care are part of the practice here.
A balanced view
Not everyone who comes to Sarnath is a Buddhist, and not everyone who meditates there thinks of it as religion. The site is also an archaeological and historical place, and it is shared by pilgrims, students, scholars and travellers. Visitors of any background can sit quietly and reflect, provided they respect the people who are there to pray. Opening hours, entry rules and the use of the park are decided by the authorities and may change, so check current official information before you go.