Cambodia and Angkor

Discovering the Hidden Temples of Cambodia: A Buddhist Pilgrimage

A careful look at lesser-visited Khmer temples such as Banteay Chhmar, the Preah Vihear area and Phnom Kulen, with landmine cautions and advice to check current guidance.

On this page
  1. What “hidden” means here
  2. Landmines and unexploded ordnance
  3. Banteay Chhmar
  4. The Preah Vihear area
  5. Phnom Kulen
  6. Seeing remote temples respectfully
  7. How these sites fit the bigger picture

What “hidden” means here

Cambodia’s best-known temples are concentrated around Siem Reap, but the Khmer empire left sanctuaries across a wide area. Some of them are in places that are harder to reach, less documented, or near areas where access has been restricted for historical or security reasons. They are not all Buddhist in origin, and some were built as Hindu temples. They are included here because several have Buddhist connections, either through the reign of Jayavarman VII or through later local worship.

This is a cautionary overview, not a route plan. Access, road conditions, border situations and local rules can change quickly, so check current official advice before any journey.

Landmines and unexploded ordnance

Decades of conflict left parts of Cambodia contaminated with landmines and unexploded ordnance. Clearance has been under way for many years and large areas have been cleared, but the problem is not fully solved, especially in some rural and border provinces. A few sensible points apply to any visitor:

  • Stay on well-used, clearly marked paths and roads, and do not step into undergrowth or old trenches, even for a photograph.
  • Pay attention to red-marked or signposted areas and local warnings.
  • Do not pick up or touch any metal object you cannot identify.
  • Check the current situation with official government travel advice and with local site managers before going to remote places. The notes on government travel advice on this site explain how to read such advisories.

Nothing here can promise that a given site or path is safe.

Banteay Chhmar

Banteay Chhmar is in the north-west, in Banteay Meanchey province, and is associated with the reign of Jayavarman VII in the late 12th to early 13th century. It is a large complex with wall carvings and face towers like those at the Bayon. Parts of it have collapsed or been damaged, and some of its sculpture was removed in the past. It is often described as a place where local communities are involved in caring for and showing the site. Because it is far from the main Angkor circuit, the visitor experience is quieter, but facilities are limited and the journey can be long. Plan with care and check the current state of access.

The Preah Vihear area

Preah Vihear temple stands on the edge of the Dangrek escarpment on the border with Thailand. It was built over several reigns and is primarily a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, so it should not be described as a Buddhist pilgrimage site in the strict sense. It was inscribed as a World Heritage property, and the border near the temple has been the subject of a dispute between Cambodia and Thailand, with periods of armed tension. Access has at times been restricted or closed. Anyone considering a visit should consult up-to-date government travel advice and local information, and should understand that the situation may change at short notice.

There are other, less famous Khmer sites in the northern plains and uplands. Many are reached over rough roads and are in areas where unexploded ordnance may still be an issue, so independent travel without good local information is unwise.

Phnom Kulen

Phnom Kulen is a sandstone plateau north-east of Siem Reap, held in tradition to be the place where the Khmer kingdom was proclaimed under Jayavarman II at the start of the 9th century. Today it is also a place of active Buddhist worship. At the Preah Ang Thom wat there is a large reclining Buddha figure carved on a boulder, and local people visit it for devotion, particularly at festival times. Streams and waterfalls on the plateau draw many Cambodian visitors on weekends.

The Kulen area has been associated with landmine contamination in past decades. Stay on marked routes and follow local and official guidance. Entrance arrangements and fees are set locally and may change, so no fee is given here.

Seeing remote temples respectfully

The less visited a place is, the more a visitor’s behaviour matters.

  1. Do not climb on fragile stonework or collapsed towers.
  2. Do not remove stones, sculptural fragments or anything else from a site. Looting has damaged many remote temples.
  3. If a monk or caretaker is present, greet them politely and ask before photographing.
  4. If a site is a working wat, observe the usual temple dress code and remove shoes.
  5. Hire local guides where recommended, because they know which paths are currently considered safe.

The idea that a remote ruin is “undiscovered” is often misleading. Local people usually know these places well, and some regard them as the home of protective spirits. Approach them with the same courtesy you would give a place of worship.

How these sites fit the bigger picture

The remote temples help show how far Khmer religious building extended, from the central lake plain to the border hills. The late 12th and early 13th centuries saw particularly extensive building under Jayavarman VII, whose Mahayana projects are described in the piece on the Bayon faces. For most travellers, the main Angkor area is the right place to begin, with remote sites added only after good research and with up-to-date local advice.

The complete guide to cambodia and angkor

A Guide to the Buddhist Pilgrimage Sites of Cambodia: From Angkor Wat to the Tonle Sap Lake
Read the guide

Keep exploring

Guides from other topics

All topics →