Active wats are not ruins
A visit to the stone temples of Angkor is mostly a visit to an archaeological site, with signs, ticket controls and guides. A visit to a working wat in a Cambodian town or village is different. It is a community’s place of worship, school, meeting hall and often cemetery, and the people there are going about their daily lives. The customs below belong mainly to Cambodian Theravada Buddhism. They are general, they vary between regions and individual temples, and local guidance should always take priority.
Arriving and dress
Visitors are normally expected to dress modestly: shoulders and knees covered, and clothing that is not tight or transparent. Hats are usually removed inside the grounds. Shoes are taken off before stepping into the main hall (vihara), and it is common to leave them at the door. Socks are acceptable in some places and not in others, so follow what others do. The wider topic of removing shoes and other temple entry customs is covered elsewhere, but the Cambodian version is the same in principle.
The greeting
The usual Khmer greeting is the sampeah, in which the palms are pressed together in front of the body. The height of the hands traditionally shows the level of respect, and is higher for monks and sacred images than for ordinary acquaintances. Visitors are not expected to perform it perfectly. A simple, sincere palms-together gesture with a slight bow is generally welcomed.
Inside the sanctuary
- Sit with your feet tucked to the side rather than pointing toward the Buddha image or toward monks. The feet are considered the lowest part of the body.
- Keep your head lower than the heads of monks where you can. In many halls, laypeople sit on the floor while monks sit on a raised platform.
- Speak softly, silence your phone, and do not eat or chew gum.
- Do not touch Buddha images, relics or offerings, and do not climb on them for photographs.
- Ask permission before photographing people at prayer, and never photograph a person who objects.
Monks and nuns
Theravada monastic rules mean that monks do not touch women or accept things directly from them. Women should avoid brushing against a monk, handing things to him, or sitting very close. If a woman wants to give something, a male companion can pass it, or it can be placed on a cloth or a table. Not every community enforces this strictly, but following it is a courtesy. The general approach is covered in the guide to courtesy toward monastics.
Monks in Cambodia are often addressed with respectful terms rather than by name, and young novices are treated with the same courtesy. Do not take a monk’s photograph without asking, and avoid interrupting chanting or meditation.
Cambodian monks belong to two main monastic orders, the Mahanikay and the smaller Thommayut. The differences are in details of discipline and ceremony and are rarely noticed by visitors.
Offerings and donations
Common offerings include flowers, incense, candles, and in some places, small amounts of money placed in a donation box. People may light incense sticks in front of the image and make a wish or a dedication. A visitor is not required to do so, and a respectful bow is enough. Offerings of food for monks are made at particular times and in particular ways, so it is best to ask a temple helper before offering anything. The question of how to give is discussed further in the piece on shrine offerings, and the concern about handing money to monks directly is dealt with under giving alms respectfully.
Festivals and holy days
Wats become much busier on the main festival days, and visitors may be welcome but should keep out of the way of ceremonies. The following are widely observed in Cambodia, although dates change each year, so check a current calendar:
- Khmer New Year in April, when families visit wats and make offerings.
- Visak Bochea, the commemoration of the Buddha’s birth, awakening and death, which parallels the Vesak festival observed across the Buddhist world.
- Pchum Ben, a period of around two weeks in the autumn when families make offerings for deceased relatives. Many people visit several wats in this period.
- Kathin, held after the end of the rains retreat, when lay communities offer robes to monks.
Attending a ceremony can be a moving experience. Stand or sit toward the back, follow others on when to stand, and do not walk in front of people at prayer. The notes on visiting during ceremonies cover this in more detail.
A few habits that cause offence
- Pointing at monks or images with a finger or the feet.
- Wearing beachwear or sleeveless tops.
- Raising your voice or laughing loudly in the hall.
- Taking selfies with sacred images or posing in front of them as if they were props.
- Stepping over a seated person or an offering.
Most people will forgive a mistake if it is made politely, so a quiet apology is enough.
A note on the history
Many wats were damaged or emptied of monks during the late 1970s, and community rebuilding since then has been significant. It is respectful to see them as places of continuing recovery. If a caretaker or monk offers to share a personal story, listen with care, and do not press for details. Conditions and customs can change, so follow local signs and advice.