A route through Tibetan-style Buddhist country
The Manaslu Circuit runs around Manaslu, one of the highest mountains in the world, in the Gorkha district of central Nepal. Much of the route passes through areas where people speak Tibetan dialects and follow Tibetan Buddhism. The upper Buddhi Gandaki valley is known as Nubri (sometimes written Nupri), and a side valley leading north is called Tsum. The two valleys are culturally close to Tibet, historically connected by trade and by religious links with monasteries across the border.
The route is better known to trekkers than to pilgrims. Even so, mani walls, chortens, gompas and prayer flags line the trail, and many people along the way are devout. This article is a cultural overview with cautions, not a trekking guide.
Nubri
Nubri is the upper part of the main valley, with villages such as Lho, Sho and Samagaon (Sama). Lho has a gompa with a view of Manaslu. Samagaon is a larger village, and nearby are Pungyen Gompa and the glacial lake Birendra Tal, both usually described as places where visitors walk or rest during acclimatisation. Further up lies Samdo, close to the Tibetan border.
Buddhism in Nubri is largely linked to Nyingma and Kagyu traditions, though monasteries and lamas differ. Gompas serve villagers for festivals and ceremonies, and some also keep scriptures, images and masks. The village houses and the gompas together make the area feel like a very quiet continuation of Tibetan culture. The buildings generally follow the pattern of a Tibetan gompa layout, with an assembly hall at the centre.
Tsum Valley
Tsum is a side valley to the north-east with its own Buddhist identity. Tradition describes it as a beyul, a hidden valley set aside as a refuge, and some accounts link the practice of the meditation teacher Milarepa to caves there. Such connections are traditional beliefs rather than documented history, and local tellings differ. The idea behind beyul hidden valleys is that a teacher concealed them as refuges to be opened in future times.
Well-known places in Tsum include:
- Mu Gompa, a monastery in the upper valley that is often described as the most important in Tsum.
- Rachen Gompa, a nunnery, which is an unusually visible institution of Buddhist women.
- Milarepa’s Cave (Piren Phu), according to tradition a place where he practised.
Local customs in Tsum are strongly tied to the gompas, and practice varies by village and family.
Why a permit matters
Large parts of the Manaslu route have been classed by Nepal as restricted areas. In recent years, walkers have generally needed a special permit, arranged through a registered agency, and have usually been required to travel with a licensed guide and in a group of at least two. Additional conservation area and local permits have also been required. These rules, fees and the lists of checkpoints change, and they may be amended at short notice. Check current requirements with official Nepali sources and a registered agency.
The restrictions exist partly because of the border location and partly to manage the number of visitors in small communities. Respect for the rules is part of respecting the area.
Altitude, weather and risk
This is a demanding route. The following is general information only and not medical or travel advice.
- Altitude. The highest point of the circuit is the Larkya La pass, commonly given as a little over 5,100 metres. Lower villages are already high. Altitude sickness can be serious, and altitude sickness awareness, together with a slow, well-planned ascent are important. Speak to a doctor with mountain experience.
- Weather. Snow can close the pass. Cold weather pilgrimage conditions apply in winter, and the monsoon brings landslides on the lower trail. Think about monsoon travel considerations when choosing dates.
- Remoteness. There is little medical help and slow evacuation. Insurance and contingency plans matter.
- Trail damage. Landslides and floods have repeatedly altered parts of the trail. Ask local people for current conditions.
The route is long, and long-distance pilgrim walking of this kind requires preparation well in advance. No source can promise a safe journey.
Walking respectfully
Many villages are small and have limited resources, and lodges are family homes. Some points of courtesy:
- Pass mani walls and chortens with the monument on your right, as locals do.
- Dress modestly and ask before photographing people, ceremonies or religious objects.
- Do not touch prayer wheels roughly or climb on walls and stupas.
- Be mindful of local rules in Tsum about animals and about sacred sites. Follow instructions in gompas.
- Spend money fairly in local lodges and shops, and keep waste to a minimum.
Context among Himalayan routes
Manaslu is one of several Nepali circuits where Buddhism and trekking overlap. The Annapurna Circuit monasteries and the sites of Mustang and Dolpo Buddhism share elements with it, while the Kathmandu Valley Buddhist sites offer a gentler introduction. What sets Manaslu apart is the combination of restricted access and Tibetan-style communities, which makes it less visited than some neighbouring routes, and also less able to absorb poorly prepared visitors.