People of the high pastures
Much of the Tibetan plateau is too high and dry for farming, and for many centuries large numbers of people have lived by herding yaks, sheep and goats across seasonal pastures. Such herding communities are often called drokpa in Tibetan. They are not a single group: customs, dialects and dress differ between regions, and in recent decades many families have settled in towns or villages, partly through government programmes. Any general account of nomad life, including this one, simplifies a varied and changing picture.
Buddhism, in various forms, is central to the identity of most of these communities. Others follow the Bon tradition, and many people hold ideas about local spirits alongside their Buddhist practice. How these fit together depends on the area and the family.
The tent as a household shrine
The traditional nomad tent is woven from yak hair, which gives it a dark colour. In a family tent, a small shrine is often set up at the back or on one side, with images, butter lamps or water bowls offered in the morning. Some families keep a portrait of a revered teacher. A fire or stove at the centre is both practical and sometimes treated with ritual care, and household rules may forbid actions such as throwing rubbish onto the fire.
Practices around the tent vary, and these are general customs, not rules for every family. A guest invited into a tent is typically expected to behave respectfully: no stepping over the threshold or the hearth, no pointing feet toward the shrine, and no touching of religious objects without permission.
Mani walls, prayer flags and cairns
Across the plateau, travellers see long walls of carved stones, called mani walls, built up over time. The stones are usually inscribed with the mantra of Avalokiteshvara, Om mani padme hum, and sometimes with images or other texts. Passers-by add stones, and keep the wall on their right, walking clockwise around it. Because their making and upkeep are acts of merit, such walls may be very long.
Prayer wheels and flags are similarly common. Flags tied on passes, cairns and rooftops carry printed prayers that are understood to be carried by the wind. They are meant to weather and fade, and are replaced periodically. Visitors should not remove or take flags, and should avoid stepping on stones or flags laid on the ground. The wider symbolism is explored in the article on prayer wheels and flags.
Lamas, monasteries and the rhythm of the year
Nomad families commonly have ties to a nearby monastery, which may be the place where a son is ordained, where a lama is invited to perform rites, or where the family makes donations. Lamas may visit camps for blessings or ceremonies, and families may travel to a monastery for important dates. Giving, especially of butter, cheese or other produce, is a part of how such relationships work. The details depend on the school and the area.
Compassion toward animals is a Buddhist ideal, though the realities of herding mean that livestock are sold or slaughtered. Some communities set aside animals as “life-freed” and do not kill them. These are subjects on which attitudes differ, and an outsider should not judge.
Seasonal festivals
The year is organised around the movement of herds and the changing seasons, and gatherings often follow a similar pattern. Some regions hold large summer festivals, which may include horse racing, archery, dance and trade alongside religious events. Monastic festivals, which may feature masked dances, take place on dates set by the Tibetan calendar. Because dates and arrangements change, and because some gatherings are for local participants rather than for tourists, check current official sources and ask locally. Photography and filming may be restricted, and permission is always needed.
Highland ecology and sacred land
Nomad Buddhism is tied up with a view of the land as inhabited. Mountains, springs and lakes are respected, and custom may forbid digging, hunting or cutting in particular places. Mountain deities are understood to protect the area and its people, and offerings of incense are made on passes. In this view, caring for the grassland is a religious matter as much as an economic one. Grassland degradation is a real concern in parts of the plateau, and the question of how traditional herding and conservation can coexist is debated.
Meeting nomad communities respectfully
If you travel on the plateau, keep in mind that you are a guest in people’s working lives:
- ask before photographing people, tents or animals
- do not hand out money or sweets to children
- accept hospitality modestly and, where appropriate, in the manner offered
- leave no rubbish and do not disturb pastures, cairns or mani walls
- avoid political topics unless the host raises them
Altitude and weather are serious on the grasslands; see current medical advice and government travel advice. Permits for travel in many plateau regions change over time.