A gorge of carved caves
The Ajanta caves are cut into a horseshoe-shaped cliff above a river gorge in Maharashtra. A UNESCO World Heritage site, they number around thirty and are usually numbered from one end of the cliff to the other. The numbering is a convenience for visitors and does not follow the order in which the caves were made.
Ajanta is a Buddhist site. Its caves fall into two kinds, as at other rock-cut caves: prayer halls with a stupa at the back, and monastic halls surrounded by small cells for monks. The word “wisdom” in the title is best taken loosely; the caves are an expression of a devotional and teaching tradition rather than a single text.
Two phases of excavation
Scholars usually describe two broad phases, with a long gap between them. The exact dates are debated, and the following is a general outline.
- An earlier phase, commonly placed in roughly the second century BCE into the first century CE, from which a small number of caves, mostly prayer halls and a monastery hall, survive. These reflect an early style of Buddhism in which aniconic Buddha symbols stood in for a human figure.
- A later phase, usually placed in the fifth century CE and possibly extending a little further, associated with regional rulers and their ministers. Most of the more elaborate caves belong here, with images of the Buddha in human form and richly painted interiors.
After the later phase, the site was left, and the caves were eventually covered by vegetation. They became widely known again in the early nineteenth century.
The paintings
Ajanta is celebrated for its wall and ceiling paintings, among the most important surviving examples of early painting in India. Many show scenes from the Jataka tales, the stories of the Buddha’s earlier lives, along with episodes from his final life and decorative patterns of plants, animals and figures. The paintings are painted on prepared plaster, in a limited range of mineral and organic pigments.
It helps to know that the Jataka scenes are a way of teaching virtues such as generosity and patience through narrative. A viewer who knows the story can follow the scene; one who does not may see a crowded composition of princes, attendants, animals and landscapes. A few of the best-known figures are bodhisattvas, shown in graceful poses and often described as ideals of compassion.
What survives
Time, damp, earlier restoration attempts and the effects of visitors have all damaged the paintings, and many are faded. Some caves are more heavily preserved than others, and reproductions and reconstructions elsewhere cannot replace the experience of seeing the originals in dim light. To protect them, authorities limit lighting and photography, and the rules have changed over time.
Visiting with care
Follow all signs about flash, tripods and touching. Remove shoes where asked, dress modestly, and keep voices low, particularly in caves where devotees may be praying. The site involves walking and stairs, and there can be strong heat or heavy rain depending on the season. Opening days, fees and any restrictions on entry are set by the authorities, and they change, so consult current official information before you go.
Reading Ajanta alongside other sites
Ajanta is a good place to understand the Buddhist art tradition because it combines architecture, sculpture and painting in one place. Those who want to compare it with a multi-faith cave site will find that Ellora is a very different experience, and those curious about earlier cave architecture can look at the Western Ghats.