Arriving as a pilgrim, not just a sightseer
The Jokhang stands in the heart of old Lhasa, and the way most devotees approach it is a good model for anyone visiting: slowly, on foot, and by going around it before going in. This article follows that sequence. Details of the temple’s founding are covered elsewhere, so the focus here is on the experience of a visit and the conduct that goes with it.
Practice varies between Tibetan communities and over time, and access to the temple, including opening hours, ticketing and who may enter, can change. Check current official information before you go, and follow the guidance of local staff on the day.
Step one: the Barkhor kora
The Barkhor is the street that rings the temple complex, and walking it is called a kora, the Tibetan word for circumambulation. Pilgrims walk it clockwise, keeping the temple on their right. This direction is common across Buddhist practice and is also followed in other Tibetan Buddhist settings, and circumambulation practice more generally has its own history and meanings.
On a typical morning the Barkhor kora is full of people of all ages. You may see:
- elders turning handheld prayer wheels and counting beads,
- families walking together, sometimes pausing to murmur prayers,
- pilgrims in regional dress who have travelled a long way,
- people placing offerings at incense burners along the route.
Visitors are welcome to join the walk, but the courteous approach is to go with the flow, not to stop suddenly in the middle of the lane for photographs, and not to walk against the crowd. If you want to stop, step to the side. Some people walk several rounds and others only one; there is no required number.
Step two: prostrations at the gate
In front of the Jokhang entrance many devotees prostrate. In the form usually seen here, a person stands, brings the joined hands to the head, throat and heart, then lowers to the ground and stretches full length before rising. Some do this a few times, others do hundreds, and some perform long series as part of a larger vow. Many use wooden boards or pads under the hands, and some wear aprons or gloves to protect themselves.
As a visitor, you do not need to prostrate. If you are not a practising Buddhist, you can simply stand back and let the practitioners have the space in front of the doors. Do not step over or between prostrating people, and avoid placing a camera lens close to someone’s face. Visiting sacred places as a non-Buddhist is perfectly acceptable when done quietly and with consideration.
Step three: entering the temple
At the entrance, follow the visitor routing that is in place. Security checks and ticket arrangements for non-Tibetan visitors may apply, and they can change; the temple may also set limits on group size or times. Inside, keep these basics in mind, and treat temple entry customs as a baseline:
- dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered,
- remove hats and keep sunglasses off in the chapels,
- speak softly, if at all,
- walk clockwise within the temple where the layout allows,
- do not point your feet at images or touch statues, offerings or monastics.
Photography is commonly restricted or forbidden inside the chapels. Ask before taking a picture of anything, and never photograph people at prayer without permission. The guidance on temple photography etiquette applies here with extra force, because the interiors are active places of worship, not galleries.
Step four: butter lamps and offerings
You will notice the smell of butter and the glow of many small flames. Devotees offer butter lamps as a gesture of devotion and a way of making merit, and the lamps are fed with butter that pilgrims bring or buy there. If you wish to make an offering, a small donation is generally accepted for adding to the lamps. Do not extinguish, move or blow out a lamp, and do not drop litter in the chapels.
Many pilgrims also make offerings of ceremonial scarves, grain or small sums of money placed before the images. Shrine offerings are a personal act and the customs differ between regions. If you are unsure, follow what others are doing, or make no offering at all. A respectful presence matters more than a donation.
Inside the main hall
The most revered image in the Jokhang is the Jowo, a statue of the Buddha as a young prince, which has its own article. Devotees queue to approach it, bow, offer a silent prayer, and pass on, so the line moves slowly. Expect to be moved along by attendants in busy periods. The aim is to let as many people as possible pay respect.
Around the main hall are chapels with various Buddhas, bodhisattvas and protective figures. Most visitors identify them by their postures and attributes; learning to read Buddha mudras and bodhisattva images beforehand makes the interior more intelligible. Staff or monks may explain some of the chapels, but they are not tour guides, so be patient and avoid asking intrusive questions during prayer.
Rooftop and leaving
In some periods, visitors can reach the roof and look out toward the Potala Palace in the distance. Whether this is open varies, so ask rather than assume. Leave as you came: quietly, and if you have the time, walk one more round of the Barkhor before moving on. Many pilgrims end their visit this way, and it is a calm moment to reflect.
Cautions for the day
Lhasa lies at around 3,650 metres, and the Barkhor kora involves walking and standing for a while. On the first days of a trip the altitude can make even a short walk tiring. Altitude sickness awareness, plenty of rest and advice from a medical professional before travel are sensible. Weather can be cold in the morning and strong in sunlight at midday. Pace yourself, and do not push on if you feel unwell.
Finally, conditions in Tibet, including permit and entry requirements for foreign travellers, may change at short notice. Always check your government’s travel advice and current official sources, and treat what is written here as general information rather than planning advice.