Devotion as something people do
Much of what makes the Jokhang significant to Tibetan Buddhists can be seen, not just read about. It is in the people prostrating on the pavement outside, the lamps burning inside and the quiet murmur of prayer. This article looks at those practices and what they mean to those who perform them, leaving the story of the building’s construction to the history article.
Practice differs between regions, schools and families, and what follows describes common patterns rather than rules. It is also not an account of private teachings or restricted rituals. Opening arrangements and access change over time, so check current information before visiting.
Prostration at the gate
At the entrance to the Jokhang, many devotees prostrate. The practice is often described as expressing respect with body, speech and mind: the body in the movement, speech in the recited prayer, and mind in the intention behind the act. A person typically stands, joins the palms above the head, brings them to the throat and chest, then lowers to the ground and stretches out before rising again. Some do a few, while others repeat the sequence many times, sometimes as part of a vow or a larger preliminary practice.
Prostration is also associated in Tibetan tradition with purifying negative actions and building up merit, though individuals explain their own reasons in different ways. Some pilgrims prostrate along the whole route from distant places to Lhasa, an arduous undertaking that is a matter of personal commitment. Visitors seeing this should keep a respectful distance and avoid treating it as a spectacle.
Circling the temple
Before or after entering, many devotees walk the Barkhor circuit clockwise, keeping the temple to their right. Circumambulation practice is shared across Buddhist cultures, and in Lhasa it is often combined with turning a prayer wheel or reciting mantras. Elders may make several rounds each morning as a daily habit, which says something about how embedded the temple is in the rhythm of life in the city. Visitors can join the walk quietly, keeping to the same direction.
Butter lamps
Inside, the flames of countless butter lamps give the temple its characteristic glow and smell. Offering a lamp is a common act of devotion. Interpretations given include the idea that light stands for wisdom dispelling ignorance, and that the offering is a way to make merit and to dedicate it to others. Different people may dedicate their lamps to the health of relatives, the welfare of the deceased, or the wellbeing of all beings.
Butter is added to lamps from containers that devotees carry or from supplies provided at the temple. If you wish to contribute, a small donation is typically accepted, but it is optional. Do not move, extinguish or blow on a lamp, and keep clear of the flames. Shrine offerings are personal, and the intention behind a gift counts for more than its size.
Scarves, prayers and the Jowo
Many visitors carry ceremonial white scarves, which are offered at altars or presented to images. Others bring small gifts, pressed in a gesture of reverence. Before the Jowo, the central image, people pause, bow and offer a prayer, and then move on to allow others their turn. For those who hold that it is a blessed image, the moments before it are the culmination of the visit. The statue’s significance is explored in its own article.
The ceremonies in the temple, with chanting by monks, may be heard from the halls. Visitors should not interrupt or enter areas that are closed. In general, observing from the edge is better than trying to take part, unless invited.
Merit and compassion
Behind these actions sits the concept of merit, the idea shared across Buddhist traditions that wholesome actions have beneficial results and can be dedicated to the benefit of others. Merit and devotion are explained further in other articles on this site. What visitors see in the Jokhang is one cultural expression of this idea, and it does not replace the many other ways Buddhists practise elsewhere in Asia.
It is also worth acknowledging that for some Tibetans, a visit to the Jokhang takes place in a complex political and social setting, with controls on access and security presence. This article does not attempt to cover that, but visitors should be aware that the atmosphere can be shaped by it, and should be sensitive when talking to local people.
Quiet conduct for visitors
- Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered; remove hats where asked. Temple dress code expectations are similar across the Tibetan region.
- Speak softly, and do not interrupt prayers or ask intrusive questions.
- Walk clockwise, and do not step over someone who is prostrating.
- Do not touch statues, offerings or monastics; courtesy toward monastics includes giving them space.
- Ask before photographing anyone, and follow signs that prohibit photography in chapels.
- Follow staff instructions and local guidance, which override any general rule.
Health and planning
Lhasa lies at about 3,650 metres. Even the walk around the Barkhor can be tiring when you have just arrived, and altitude sickness awareness, rest and medical advice before travelling are important. Entry requirements for foreign visitors to Tibet are set by the authorities and can change quickly, so consult official sources and your government’s travel advice rather than relying on this article.
Seeing devotion on its own terms
A visitor who sits for a few minutes at the edge of the Barkhor or the temple forecourt will understand more about the Jokhang’s significance than from any list of facts. The sight of people bowing, circling and lighting lamps is not a performance but an ongoing practice with deep personal meaning. Respecting that, and giving people room to pursue it, is the most thoughtful way to take part as a guest.