A palace that is also a shrine
Visitors often describe the Potala in architectural terms: a white-and-red building rising on a hill above Lhasa. For Tibetan Buddhists it is better understood as a sacred place. It was the residence of the Dalai Lamas, who are regarded in Tibetan tradition as manifestations of Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion. The name Potala is itself connected with Avalokiteshvara’s legendary home. The building has therefore long been associated with both rule and devotion.
This article approaches the Potala as a pilgrimage goal. Its construction history is covered separately in the discussion of Potala Palace history, and the building’s design is described in the piece on Potala Palace architecture.
The hill and its early associations
Tibetan tradition associates the hill, called Marpo Ri or the Red Hill, with King Songtsen Gampo in the 7th century, who is said to have had a palace and a meditation place there. The present building is generally dated to the 17th century, when the Fifth Dalai Lama began construction in the 1640s, and work on its later parts continued into the following decades. The precise sequence is better left to specialist histories.
For pilgrims, this layering matters. The place is seen as holy because of a continuing connection through rulers, teachers and the compassion of Avalokiteshvara.
How pilgrims engage with it
Tibetan pilgrims from across the plateau come to the Potala as part of a visit to Lhasa. Their devotion is usually expressed in three ways.
Circumambulation. Pilgrims walk clockwise around the palace along the path at its base. Many carry prayer beads or hand-held prayer wheels, and a line of large prayer wheels runs along part of the route. The route is a form of kora, which is described in the broader explanation of circumambulation practice. It is often done early in the day or in the evening, when local people walk it as a daily habit.
Prayer at the foot of the hill. Some devotees prostrate, light butter lamps at nearby shrines, or tie prayer flags. Others simply pause and recite mantras while looking up at the building.
Devotion inside. Inside the palace there are many chapels and halls containing sacred images, scriptures and the funerary stupas of earlier Dalai Lamas. Pilgrims who are able to enter bow, make offerings and pass in a quiet line. Further detail on the interiors appears in the article on Potala Palace chapels and tombs.
Why the tombs and chapels matter
In Tibetan Buddhist belief, the Dalai Lamas are regarded as successive embodiments of compassion rather than ordinary historical figures. The stupas holding the remains of earlier Dalai Lamas are therefore treated as relics of great sanctity. A pilgrim’s visit is typically not for sightseeing but to receive blessing, to make offerings and to remember the lineage.
Beliefs about what such a visit accomplishes vary between individuals and communities, and this article describes the devotional framework in general terms only.
Access: what to check
Rules for entering the Potala interior have changed over time and will probably continue to. In recent years, visits have typically been regulated through advance reservation, timed entry and limits on the length of the visit, with ticketing and identification arrangements that differ for different groups of visitors. Some areas may be closed for conservation, and arrangements may differ between Tibetan pilgrims, domestic visitors and foreign visitors.
Nothing here should be taken as current. Before planning, check:
- the current official visiting rules and booking arrangements
- whether your travel documents and permits allow entry to Lhasa at all
- the latest government travel advice for your country
Walking the circuit outside the building is usually less restricted than entering, but it too depends on local conditions.
Behaving well
Whether circling or entering, a few courtesies apply:
- Walk clockwise and keep to the flow of pilgrims.
- Dress modestly; temple dress code expectations apply even outdoors at a holy site.
- Photography is often restricted inside the chapels, so follow the signs and the guards’ instructions, and read about temple photography etiquette.
- Do not touch images, offerings or the walls.
- Do not step in front of someone who is prostrating.
- Speak quietly.
A note on altitude
Lhasa lies at about 3,600 metres above sea level, and the stairs up the palace are steep. Even healthy people can feel breathless on arrival. Allow time to rest and acclimatise, avoid overexertion on the first days, and read about altitude sickness awareness before travelling. This is general information, not medical advice, and anyone with health concerns should consult a doctor with experience of high-altitude travel.
The Potala is, for many pilgrims, a place to be quiet in front of rather than something to tick off.