Where Sakya is
Sakya is a small town in the Tsang region of Tibet, in the south-west of the Shigatse area, on or near the roads that run between Shigatse and the western and Himalayan parts of the plateau. It sits at well over 4,000 metres above sea level. The name is usually explained as “grey earth”, after the colour of the soil on the hillside where the first monastery was founded in the 11th century according to tradition.
This article is a visitor-focused look at what the town and its monastery look like. The history of the Sakya school, its teachers and its role in Tibetan politics is covered in other articles, notably the pieces on the Sakya lineage and the Sakya Monastery’s significance; this one concentrates on what you see.
Striped walls
The first thing most visitors notice is colour. Sakya’s monastic buildings and many of the houses are painted with vertical stripes of grey, white and red. Tradition says these colours stand for three bodhisattvas: grey for Manjushri, white for Avalokiteshvara and red for Vajrapani. The stripes mark the Sakya school’s buildings across the region, and are one of the clearest visual signs of the tradition.
That symbolism is the standard explanation, though like many such readings it is best seen as traditional. For other colour meanings in Tibetan painting and architecture, see the notes on Buddhist colour symbolism.
Two monastery areas
The old Sakya complex is traditionally described in two parts, on opposite sides of a small river.
The north monastery. On the hillside, the original foundation is traditionally dated to 1073. It has suffered heavily over the centuries, and most of what remains is ruin and reconstruction. Visitors with an interest in history may find the hillside atmospheric, but there is much less to see inside than in the south.
The south monastery. The larger and better-preserved part is on the plain. It is built like a fortress, with thick walls, corner towers and a surrounding moat or enclosure that gives it a defensive look. This is where most visitors spend their time. Its date is usually given as the 13th century, and the complex is traditionally linked to the period of the school’s greatest political influence.
Inside the south monastery is a great assembly hall, famous for its massive pillars and its dim, atmospheric interior. The layout of such a hall is explained in the notes on the Tibetan gompa layout. Statues of lineage masters and Buddhist deities line the walls, and monks may be chanting in the hall at certain times.
The library wall
Sakya is especially known for its library. Behind the main hall is a very large wall of shelves filled with volumes of scripture and other texts, stacked floor to ceiling. Some of the volumes are said to be enormous in size. The collection includes texts that are valued as important documents of Tibetan religious and literary history.
As a visitor, you will normally see the library from a distance and not handle it. These are sacred texts, and in many Tibetan temples the scriptures are treated as objects of reverence. Do not touch them, and do not lean against the shelves. Photography may be limited, so follow signs.
Getting there and what to check
Sakya is usually reached by road from Shigatse. Travel rules in Tibet change, and permits may be required for foreign visitors to travel outside Lhasa, so check current official sources and government travel advice before planning. Opening hours for the monastery and its halls, ticketing arrangements and whether the library can be seen are all subject to change, so this guide cannot give current information on them.
Because Sakya is higher than Lhasa, visitors should have acclimatised properly first. Read about altitude sickness awareness, and about pilgrim health basics before travelling. This is general information and not medical advice.
Sakya also fits into the wider geography of the Shigatse monasteries, so it is commonly seen alongside Tashilhunpo and nearby sites. For a general sense of the wider category, see the article on Tibetan monasteries.
Visiting respectfully
Sakya’s monasteries are active places of worship. Dress modestly, walk clockwise around shrines, take off hats where asked, and speak quietly. Ask before taking photographs, particularly of monks, and be aware that cameras are often prohibited inside the main chapels. The practical advice in the guide to temple photography etiquette applies here. Make offerings according to local custom, and avoid treating the town as a stage set. People live and work here.
A visit to Sakya is often short, but it repays patience. The colours, the walls and the scripture shelves make it one of the more distinctive monasteries in Tsang.