A recognisable appearance
Walkers on Shikoku are often easy to spot: a white jacket or vest, a conical hat of woven sedge, and a wooden staff. This outfit is traditional pilgrim dress associated with the Shikoku circuit, and its main elements have names. Many are also worn in other Japanese pilgrimages, though the details differ.
Today, the outfit is common but not compulsory. Many pilgrims wear everyday walking clothes or just one or two of the traditional items. Others wear the full set. Those who join for a short stretch or travel by bus or car may choose a vest only. There is no official rule, and temple staff do not expect visitors to be dressed in any particular way, though modest, tidy dress is always appropriate.
The white vest
The white vest, called a hakui or oizuru, is the most visible piece. White is traditionally associated with purity, and also with the white clothing used for the dead in Japanese funerary custom. As a result, the garment is often described as a burial shroud in spirit: the pilgrim sets out symbolically prepared to die, at least to the old life. Accounts that describe this as the “meaning” of the vest reflect a common interpretation, but readers should treat it as tradition rather than a single official doctrine.
Many vests carry written characters. One of them is often dogyo ninin, “two travelling together”, which refers to the pilgrim being accompanied by Kukai, as explained in the article on the Kukai legend. Some vests include a short Sanskrit syllable, and pilgrims may also have the temple seals added to them, a practice covered under temple stamp books and seals, though the book is the more common record today.
The sedge hat
The hat, sugegasa, is made of sedge and shaped to shed sun and rain. It often bears a short verse or the same “two travelling together” phrase, and sometimes a Sanskrit character representing a Buddhist figure. A traditional verse written on the hat, as it is frequently translated, speaks of the confusion of the world and the absence of any fixed “here” or “there”. Since wordings vary between sources and versions, no exact translation is quoted here.
Practical custom: pilgrims typically remove the hat on entering the temple gate or when praying, and it is commonly taken off for greeting people indoors. It is also a protection from strong sunshine, which matters in summer heat; readers should consider heat on pilgrimage as a serious concern, not merely a clothing matter.
The staff
The staff, kongozue, is probably the most strongly symbolic of the items. According to tradition, it represents Kukai himself, the monk with whom the pilgrim travels. Accordingly, it is treated with care: pilgrims commonly wipe it or wash the tip at lodgings, avoid putting it down carelessly, and never use it for purposes that would disrespect it. Several accounts describe it as taking the place of a grave marker for a pilgrim who dies on the road, which is an old tradition and not a contemporary expectation.
In many lodgings, the staff is received by the host and placed in a special place for the night. The practice is a good example of how everyday objects are treated as sacred along the route. When entering temple halls, pilgrims often hold the staff upright or leave it outside, depending on local custom.
The stole and other items
A narrow stole, the wagesa, is worn around the neck and is used while praying. It is generally put on for temple visits and worn with the same respect as a religious garment. Pilgrims commonly also carry:
- A set of prayer beads (juzu), used while chanting.
- A bag for the stamp book, name slips, sutra book and candles.
- A bell, in some cases, which is sometimes carried to be rung while walking.
These objects are used during the practices described in henro temple rituals, such as chanting and the presentation of name slips. Suppliers sell them at temples and shops along the way, though availability and prices are not covered here.
Whether to wear it
A visitor who is not undertaking the route as a pilgrim might wonder whether wearing the outfit is respectful. There is no single answer. Many pilgrims welcome others who join the road in the same spirit. Even so, it is wise to treat the items as religious garments rather than costume, to avoid wearing them for novelty or photographs alone, and to ask local people when unsure. Those who do wear them should follow the guidance on temple dress code and try to behave in a way that fits the symbolism. The outfit is intended as a reminder of humility, and perhaps the clearest sign of a good pilgrim is how they treat others, not what they wear.