No single correct way
Pilgrims on Shikoku travel in several ways: on foot, by bicycle, by car, by bus or guided group, and often by a mixture. The tradition behind the circuit favours no one method as the only valid choice. Walking is the oldest and the one most strongly associated with the practice, but a pilgrimage by vehicle is also widely accepted, and many people with limited time, health or mobility complete it that way. The overview of the Shikoku pilgrimage gives the general shape of the circuit; this article looks at the practical trade-offs.
No precise timings or costs are given here, as they vary with the route taken, the season and personal pace. Readers should check current information.
Walking
Walking is the slowest approach, and it is often described as the most immersive. The circuit is commonly said to be roughly 1,200 kilometres on foot, so a full walk is typically a matter of several weeks and may stretch toward two months at an unhurried pace. That figure is an approximation.
Common advantages mentioned by walkers:
- The pace allows time to notice the landscape, the villages and the people met along the way, which includes opportunities for the custom of osettai.
- The physical effort is regarded by many as part of the spiritual discipline.
- Rural lodgings and rest huts are built around the needs of walkers.
Common difficulties:
- The distance is demanding, with long days, hills and stretches of road. Preparation matters, as discussed in long-distance pilgrim walking.
- Weather is a real factor. Summer can be hot and humid, the rainy season and typhoon season bring heavy rain, and winter can be cold in the mountains. See heat on pilgrimage and monsoon travel considerations.
- Lodging can be limited in some stretches, so planning is needed. The article on shukubo lodging describes the main types.
- Some roads have tunnels or narrow verges, and care with traffic is important.
Anyone considering a long walk should seek medical advice first, consider travel insurance, and never treat this article as a promise of safety.
Cycling
Cycling covers the ground faster than walking, while still allowing a feel for the landscape. Some people appreciate the freedom, others find that hills and traffic make it tiring. Cyclists generally visit temples on foot at each stop. They should check road and tunnel conditions, carry repair basics, and park thoughtfully. It requires good fitness and sensible equipment.
Driving, buses and guided trips
Travelling by car, bus or taxi covers the circuit in a fraction of the time, from several days to roughly a couple of weeks depending on pace, and makes the route available to people who cannot walk long distances. Group bus pilgrimages have a long history on Shikoku, and group leaders often guide chanting and temple visits in a traditional manner.
Drawbacks include less contact with the road and its customs, parking and traffic near popular temples, and the risk of rushing: temples are not attractions to tick off, and a hurried visit can undermine the quiet of the experience. Drivers should plan breaks and avoid fatigue. This article does not recommend any operator, and readers should rely on current official sources when choosing how to travel.
Doing it in sections
Many pilgrims split the circuit into parts and complete it over several trips, sometimes over years. This is sometimes called a sectional approach, and it is a well-established custom. Reasons include limited leave, weather, health, or simply a wish to make the journey last. In practice, people may walk a stage, return home, and resume at the same temple later. Such a pilgrimage is no less valid than a continuous one.
Some also combine methods, for example walking the mountain stages and using transport for the long flat or urban stretches. This is common and accepted.
Choosing sensibly
Consider your fitness, available time, and tolerance for weather and discomfort. Think about the purpose of your journey, since reflection, devotion, exercise or curiosity may each point to a different choice. A short trial section is a reasonable way to test your assumptions before committing to more.
Whatever the means of travel, the same respect for temples applies. The sequence at each stop, described in henro temple rituals, is performed in the same way whether the pilgrim has arrived on foot or by car. And as with any pilgrimage, mindful travel, taking the time to be present and considerate, matters more than the method.