A common pattern, not a fixed rule
Pilgrims on Shikoku usually follow a recognisable sequence at each of the 88 temples. The pattern is learned from guidebooks, from experienced pilgrims and from temple signs, and it is handed on largely by example. Different sources describe it a little differently, and temples may have their own customs, so this article gives a general outline. If a sign or a member of staff suggests a different order, follow that.
Pilgrims often say the purpose of the routine is to show respect, to settle the mind and to offer thanks. It does not need to be performed flawlessly, and visitors who are new to it are generally treated kindly.
1. At the gate
The visit commonly begins at the main gate. Many pilgrims stop just outside, put their palms together and bow, sometimes saying a short phrase. Walkers often remove their hat at this point. The same courtesy is repeated on leaving, by turning toward the temple and bowing again. Further background on gates and bowing is in the article on Japanese temple and shrine etiquette.
2. Purification
Near the entrance, there is typically a water basin where visitors rinse hands and mouth, symbolically cleansing themselves before they approach the sacred space. The same method used at other Japanese sites is followed, with the left hand, the right hand, then the mouth. Some temples also include a small shrine to a deity at the entrance, which pilgrims may greet briefly.
3. The bell
Many temples have a bell tower. Pilgrims often ring the bell once before reaching the main hall, announcing their arrival. A frequently stated custom is not to ring it when leaving, and some temples ask that it not be rung at all at certain hours or by large groups. Signs usually make this clear. Treat the bell gently and respect any restrictions.
4. Candles and incense
Pilgrims commonly light a candle and incense at the stands outside or in front of the halls. The usual practice is to light the candle first, then the incense from the candle, and place each in its holder. Often one candle and three sticks of incense are mentioned, although the numbers and meanings differ by tradition. To extinguish a flame, wave a hand rather than blowing. Many pilgrims bring their own supplies, while others buy them at the temple.
5. Offerings and name slips
At the main hall, pilgrims place a coin in the offering box and may put in a name slip, called an osamefuda. This is a small paper slip carrying the pilgrim’s name, address and a wish. Some slips are used in different colours depending on how many circuits the pilgrim has completed, a convention that is described variously in different sources. The coin is a personal gift, and no amount is required.
Sometimes pilgrims also offer a copy of a sutra, an old practice that lies behind the stamp book tradition covered in the article on the nokyocho stamp book.
6. Chanting
Standing in front of the main hall, pilgrims press their palms together and recite a short sequence of prayers. A common core is the Heart Sutra, a short Mahayana text widely chanted across East Asia, together with other short verses and a mantra. Exact contents and order vary, and many guidebooks give a form. Beginners often bring a booklet or follow a group, and silent prayer in place of chanting is also acceptable.
Many Shikoku temples also have a separate hall dedicated to Kukai, known as the Daishi-do. Pilgrims commonly visit the main hall first and then repeat the sequence at the Daishi hall, though there are variations. The reasons for the veneration of Kukai are explored in the article on the Kukai legend.
7. The stamp office
Next, pilgrims typically go to the stamp office to have their book inscribed and sealed. Etiquette and details are explained in temple stamp books and calligraphy seals. The office has set hours, so it is worth planning visits around them and checking current times.
8. Leaving
On departing, pilgrims bow toward the main hall again, and often at the gate. Temples are working religious sites, so tidy up, do not leave rubbish and do not linger noisily at the door. Many pilgrims take a few quiet minutes to sit and reflect before leaving.
Variation and respect
Practice differs between temples, between groups and between individuals, and not every pilgrim follows every step. Some temples are quiet rural halls, while others are busy with visitors and tour groups. Some pilgrims are doing this as devotion and others are simply travellers. A person who observes quietly, moves slowly and follows local guidance will rarely go wrong. The outfit, the staff and the stole, described in henro attire, accompany these steps for those who choose to wear them, and the sequence also applies to temples visited on a sectional journey or by vehicle. For the larger context of the circuit, see the overview of the Shikoku pilgrimage.