The capital on the river
Vientiane lies on the left bank of the Mekong, with Thailand across the water. It became the principal city of the Lao kingdom in the 16th century according to the usual account, and it was heavily damaged in the early 19th century, so many of its older buildings were rebuilt or restored later. The result is a capital that feels quieter than most, with temples spread through ordinary neighbourhoods. The great stupa Pha That Luang is the national symbol and is covered separately, so this article focuses on other places.
Wat Si Saket
Wat Si Saket is often described as the oldest surviving temple in Vientiane, dating from the early 19th century and associated with King Anouvong. It is commonly said to have escaped the destruction of the city by Siamese forces in the 1820s, which would explain its age, although local histories differ on the details of what survived. The temple’s cloister walls have many small niches holding Buddha images, with a large number of further images stacked on shelves, in a range of sizes and materials. The traditional count of images is large, but figures are not consistent between sources, so no number is given here.
The sim at the centre is built in a style that shows Siamese influence, with a tiered roof, and murals inside are worn but still visible. The temple has operated as a museum-like site in recent decades, with an entrance ticket system. As a visitor, check current hours and fees. Treat the cloister as a place of devotion even when it is empty.
Haw Phra Kaew
Haw Phra Kaew was built in the 16th century to house the Emerald Buddha, a famous image that was brought to Vientiane from the north and was later taken to Siam in the 18th century. The present building is a 20th-century reconstruction. It is no longer an active temple and now operates as a museum of religious art. The Emerald Buddha is now in Bangkok, a story that is told in the article on the Emerald Buddha, and the building in Vientiane therefore carries a memory of the image instead of the image itself.
Inside and around the building are Buddha statues, stone carvings and temple objects from various periods, and some fine woodwork. Because the interior is a museum, photography and entry rules are set by the staff and signs.
Active neighbourhood wats
In addition to Wat Si Saket and Haw Phra Kaew, Vientiane has numerous working wats where monks and novices study and live. A visit to one of these is a chance to see everyday Lao Buddhism rather than heritage display. A few things to look for in a typical compound:
- A sim, where monks are ordained and certain ceremonies are held.
- A meeting or teaching hall, often open-sided.
- A stupa, sometimes holding the ashes of local families.
- Monks’ quarters, usually not open to visitors.
- Old trees, sometimes with cloth wrapped around them, which people regard as sacred.
The Bodhi tree tradition explains why large trees are often given special respect at temples across the Buddhist world.
The Buddha Park
South-east of the city, near the Mekong, the Buddha Park (Xieng Khuan) is a sculpture garden of large concrete figures. It was created in the late 1950s by Bunleua Sulilat, a mystic and sculptor, and combines Buddhist and Hindu imagery in a style that is personal and eclectic. A pumpkin-shaped structure with several levels is among its best-known elements.
It is best understood as a modern art and devotional park, not an ancient temple, and not a place of official pilgrimage. Some visitors come for photographs and others come to make offerings. Be careful on the steps and in the heat, and take note of signs that discourage climbing on some figures. The presence of Hindu deities beside Buddhist figures reflects the founder’s interests and the mixed religious background of the region.
Reading the temples
Vientiane’s temples are not as old as people sometimes assume. Wars, fires and rebuilding mean that “ancient” often means “restored in the 19th or 20th century”. Seeing this clearly helps avoid disappointment and makes the actual history more interesting. Comparing the style with Thai temples across the river, you may notice similar roofs and decoration, though a Lao sim is typically described as more modest in scale. The piece on Thai wat layout explains the shared plan.
Visiting respectfully
- Dress with shoulders and knees covered, and remove shoes before entering a hall.
- Do not point your feet at Buddha images and avoid sitting with your back to them.
- Do not touch monks or hand them items if you are a woman.
- Keep voices low during chanting and ask before photographing people.
- Check opening times, ticket arrangements and any security rules ahead of time, since they change.
Lao customs and daily practices are explained in the article on Lao Buddhist customs. For the unusual caves, provincial wats and Wat Phou, see the overview of Laos Buddhist heritage.