A town of wats
Luang Prabang sits on a peninsula where the Nam Khan meets the Mekong, in northern Laos. The old town is a World Heritage property, partly because its wats, houses and street plan blend Lao and colonial-era elements. Many of the temples are still active monasteries, with resident monks and novices whose daily routine continues alongside visitors. The town has long been associated with Lao royalty, and its name is linked to the Phra Bang, a revered Buddha image, though the history of that image is a matter of tradition and has its own complications.
Because the town is small and popular, the main challenge for a visitor is not finding temples but visiting them in a way that does not interfere with the people who use them.
Wat Xieng Thong
Wat Xieng Thong is usually considered the most important temple of the old town. It is traditionally dated to the mid-16th century, to the reign of King Setthathirath, though sources vary on the details, and it was later restored and expanded. Its main hall (sim) has the long, low, sweeping roof typical of the Luang Prabang style, with several tiers that come close to the ground. At the rear of the sim, a mosaic of coloured glass depicts a tree, and nearby smaller chapels house a gilded reclining Buddha and a royal funeral carriage house. Details of the decoration, such as the gilded stencil work on dark walls, can be admired without touching.
The monastery has historically been connected with the royal family, and it remains an active place of study and ceremony. As a rule, observe whether a building is open and whether worshippers are inside before entering.
Other wats in the old town
A handful of other temples are often visited:
- Wat Mai, once the residence of the head of Lao Buddhism, known for its ornate gilded carvings.
- Wat Visoun and its large stupa, associated in tradition with an older foundation and rebuilt after damage.
- The hill at Phou Si, with steps leading up to a small shrine and a stupa, and views over the town.
Opening times, ticket arrangements and the status of individual buildings change, so rely on current official sources and on signs at the gate. A less-known side street wat is often more rewarding than a crowded one.
The morning alms round
Each morning at dawn, monks and novices walk in procession through the old town to receive offerings of food, mostly sticky rice, from lay people. This is a daily act of merit-making and a core part of the relationship between monastic and lay communities. In Luang Prabang it has also become a significant tourist attraction, which has caused serious concern among residents and monks about crowding, flash photography and the purchase of food from sellers who may not provide proper offerings. The topic is discussed further under Luang Prabang alms round.
If you wish to observe:
- Keep a respectful distance and stay quiet, preferably on the side of the street away from the monks’ path.
- Do not use flash or approach monks to take close-up photos.
- Do not stand in front of monks or touch them. Women should be particularly careful to avoid contact.
- Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered.
- If you want to give food, ask your guesthouse or a trustworthy local person how to do so properly. Giving without understanding the custom can make the practice less meaningful. Treating it as a show is widely regarded as disrespectful.
Many travellers choose to watch from a distance and leave the giving to local residents. The guide to giving alms respectfully offers more detail.
The Pak Ou caves
Upstream from Luang Prabang, at the meeting of the Nam Ou and the Mekong, lie the Pak Ou caves. They are two limestone caverns on a cliff face, the lower and the upper, filled with a large number of Buddha images in different styles and sizes, left by worshippers over a long period. The caves are traditionally visited at the Lao New Year in April, when local people come to pay respect. The visit is usually made by river, and the journey itself is part of the experience. The caves also fit the wider idea of rock-cut caves as sacred places, although these are natural limestone and not carved.
At Pak Ou:
- Do not remove, move or touch images, even small ones that seem loose.
- Be careful on steps, which can be steep or slippery, and take care in the darker upper cave.
- Boats and river conditions vary by season. Check current conditions and use a licensed operator.
Temple etiquette in brief
Customs vary by temple, but visitors should expect to remove shoes before entering a hall, cover shoulders and knees, avoid pointing their feet at images, and speak softly. These points follow the general temple dress code on this site. Ask before photographing monks, novices and ceremonies. Many wats ask for a small donation at the gate or in a box, which is separate from any offering you may choose to make.
Festivals
The Lao New Year (Pi Mai) in mid-April and the end-of-Lent festival in autumn, with its illuminated boats, are among the busiest times in Luang Prabang. Accommodation fills up, ceremonies become crowded and streets may be closed. If you attend, remember that you are a guest at a religious festival. The notes on visiting during ceremonies are relevant here.
Looking beyond the old town
The sacred landscape around the town includes waterfalls, caves and village wats that receive few visitors. To understand how such places fit together, the broader picture of Laos Buddhist heritage may be useful. The town’s long history, its royal past and its monastic communities all contribute to a sense of place that rewards slow, quiet visiting.