Two traditions in one delta
The Mekong Delta in southern Vietnam is one of the few places where Theravada and Mahayana Buddhism are practised in the same landscape by different communities. Most Vietnamese are associated with Mahayana forms of Buddhism, often mixed with ancestor veneration and local customs. A smaller Khmer minority, concentrated in provinces such as Tra Vinh and Soc Trang and also present in others, follows Theravada Buddhism in the same way as people in Cambodia. This gives the delta a distinctive religious map in which pagodas of two kinds sit within sight of each other.
The Khmer community of the delta is often called Khmer Krom, “Khmer of the lower region” in Khmer, a term that has historical and political associations. Different sources and communities use different names, and the subject is sensitive. This article uses the term Khmer Krom pagodas simply to refer to the Khmer Theravada temples, and does not take a position on any political question.
Khmer Theravada pagodas
A Khmer pagoda in the delta, called a wat in Khmer, is recognisable from a few features:
- A main hall (vihara) with a multi-tiered roof, often with gilded ornament and nagas, the serpent figures that guard the stairs and rooflines.
- Murals inside, commonly showing the life of the Buddha and stories from the Jataka tales, painted in a style familiar from Cambodia.
- Slender stupas and a compound that includes living quarters for monks, who may include many young novices.
- Khmer script on signs and a daily rhythm of morning chanting and alms.
The monks often serve as teachers of Khmer language and traditional culture in their communities, and the wat is a social centre. Some wats in Tra Vinh and Soc Trang are well known to visitors, including ones with large bat or stork populations in the grounds. Details differ and change, so check locally. In Soc Trang, the Khmer festival of Ok Om Bok, held around the full moon of the late autumn lunar month, includes boat racing and the floating of lanterns, and the Khmer New Year in April is another major event. Because dates are tied to lunar calendars, check them each year.
The fact that these temples keep Cambodian Theravada customs reflects the wider story of Theravada Southeast Asia, and the nearby Cambodian side has its own history, outlined in the piece on the Khmer Theravada revival.
Vietnamese Mahayana temples
Vietnamese pagodas (chua) generally have a different feel. Typical features include:
- A main hall with a central Buddha, often with Amitabha or Shakyamuni, and bodhisattva figures, with Quan Am (Guanyin, Avalokiteshvara) especially popular.
- Incense burning, offering altars and chanting that often reflects Pure Land devotion, the practice of reciting the name of Amitabha.
- Texts and rituals in Vietnamese and sometimes classical Chinese terms, drawn from the Mahayana sutras.
- Side shrines for ancestors or local spirits, which are common in Vietnamese temples.
Monks and nuns in this tradition follow different monastic rules from Theravada monks, and their dress is usually grey or brown rather than saffron. Vietnamese Buddhism has its own long history, which is covered under Vietnamese Buddhism, and the delta’s pagodas are only a part of it. The images in these temples are described in the piece on bodhisattva images.
Many Vietnamese temples in the delta are comparatively recent, since the region was settled by Vietnamese farmers over the last few centuries, so do not expect old stone temples like those of Angkor.
Other religious communities
The delta also has religious groups that are not Buddhist but sometimes appear in the same travel itineraries. Cao Dai and Hoa Hao are Vietnamese religious movements of the 20th century. They are distinct from Buddhism, though Hoa Hao has Buddhist roots. They are mentioned here only so visitors do not confuse them, and they deserve their own careful treatment.
What differs for a visitor
Etiquette is similar in most respects, but the details differ slightly.
- In a Khmer wat, remove shoes before entering the hall, cover shoulders and knees, and do not point feet at monks. Women should avoid touching monks or handing them things directly, and a palms-together greeting is welcome.
- In a Vietnamese pagoda, modest dress is also expected. Customs such as bowing or burning incense may vary, so watch what local worshippers do and ask if unsure. The usual temple dress code applies.
- In both, ask before photographing people, and be quiet during chanting.
- Do not treat festivals as staged shows. Visitors are usually welcome, but locals come first.
Getting around and staying careful
The delta is a network of rivers, canals and roads, and local travel arrangements change. Heat, humidity, flooding in the wet season and mosquito-borne illness are all real considerations. Check official health and travel guidance and consult a medical professional before travelling. Boat trips should be taken with licensed operators, and life jackets should be used.
Why this region matters
The delta is part of the longer story of the Mekong as a cultural thread through Theravada countries, while also standing at the edge of the Vietnamese Mahayana world. Seeing the two traditions in neighbouring villages is a useful reminder that Buddhism is not one uniform practice, and that the major Buddhist traditions each have their own temple styles, languages and customs. The Vietnamese side of the delta’s temple scene is also discussed under Mekong Delta pagodas elsewhere on this site.