A capital after Anuradhapura
Polonnaruwa lies in the dry zone of north-central Sri Lanka, not far from the Mahaweli river. It became the island’s principal royal city in the eleventh century, after Anuradhapura fell into decline following invasions from southern India. Sinhalese rule was restored there in the later part of that century, and the twelfth-century king Parakramabahu I is remembered for his building work, his irrigation projects and his efforts to reform and unify the monastic community. The city remained a capital until the thirteenth century, after which the centre of the kingdom moved away.
Today Polonnaruwa is an archaeological park, and the ruins are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its brick shrines, relic houses and image houses date from several reigns. The site is more compact than Anuradhapura, which makes it easier to see in a day, although the heat can be demanding.
The medieval monuments
Several groups of buildings are widely visited:
- The Quadrangle, a raised terrace with a circular relic house known as the Vatadage, a stone-carved shrine with Buddha images, and nearby buildings, some of which are connected with the tooth relic tradition and the veneration of relics.
- Lankatilaka, a tall brick image house whose high surviving walls give a sense of its former scale, with a large headless Buddha figure inside.
- Rankoth Vehera and Kiri Vehera, large stupas in the Anuradhapura tradition. The Kiri Vehera is named for its milk-white appearance.
- The ruined palace and council chamber of the king, which show that this was a royal capital as well as a religious centre.
Polonnaruwa also shows how later builders drew on several traditions. Hindu shrines survive near the Buddhist monuments, a reminder of the island’s religious mix in this period, including its South Asian connections.
Gal Vihara
Gal Vihara, meaning roughly “rock monastery” or “stone shrine”, lies at the northern part of the site. The name refers to a single long granite outcrop on which four Buddha figures were carved in relief. Tradition and scholarship generally attribute them to the reign of Parakramabahu I in the twelfth century, and there are remains of a brick structure that may have sheltered them.
The four images are usually described this way:
- A seated Buddha in a meditation posture, set in an artificial cave-like recess against the rock.
- A second, smaller seated Buddha in a niche decorated with ornament.
- A standing figure with the arms crossed on the chest, around seven metres tall by commonly given figures.
- A reclining figure, shown lying on its right side, often said to be around fourteen metres long.
Measurements vary between sources, so treat any number as approximate.
How to read the standing figure
The standing figure raises the question most visitors ask. The arms are crossed in front of the chest, a stance not typical for the Buddha. One long-standing interpretation holds that it represents the disciple Ananda, grieving or standing in respect beside the reclining Buddha at the time of his passing. Others believe it is a Buddha in a particular gesture of contemplation. The arrangement of the reclining image beside it makes the first reading appealing, but there is no certainty, and scholars have discussed it for a long time. It is best to say plainly that interpretations differ.
The reclining image represents the Buddha at his final passing, the parinirvana. In Theravada visual language it is typically shown lying on the right side, head resting on the hand, with the feet aligned. The calm face and careful carving of the folds of the robe are often admired, and the conventions of Buddha iconography and the Buddha mudras, or hand gestures, help explain the postures.
Viewing the images respectfully
Gal Vihara is a religious site as well as a monument. Many Sri Lankans come to venerate the images, and they lay flowers before them. Visitors are generally expected to remove shoes and head coverings before approaching, to dress modestly, and to speak quietly. Do not climb on the platform, touch the carvings, or pose with your back to an image. Ask before photographing devotees. The ground can be extremely hot, and on busy days there may be queues.
Entry arrangements, opening hours, ticketing and restricted zones can change, and weather in the dry zone can be severe, so check current official sources before travelling and carry water. This article gives general information only.
Why it matters
Polonnaruwa shows a Sri Lankan Buddhist kingdom rebuilding after upheaval, and Gal Vihara shows that it did so with confidence and artistic skill. Seeing the site after the older capital helps make sense of the island’s history as a sequence of revivals as much as a straight line.